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I guess this question was to simplistic for anyone to answer so I figured it out myself

After searching other posts I discovered the solution was to loosen the high pressure line (big one ) at each injector (on top of engine) and turn the motor over with the throttle 1/3 open until the air was out.   I tightened each one, one at a time while the engine was turning to make sure no air got in when I stopped cranking.  The engine started as I tightened each one so I would have to stop the engine between each injector.   The machine runs smoothly again!!!

Hope this helps some other newbees like me.

Ed

The other day I was digging a hole with my OC4 diesel with the backhoe attachment and it started to miss like it was running out of fuel.  I quickly shut it down before it stalled but I think I caused a problem.   I put fuel in, it was empty, but now it runs unevenly, speed changes and sounds like it is missing.   I primed it before I started it.   Do I have to bleed some air out of the system?   Before this happened it always ran very smoothly.

Thanks
Ed

Haddam CT
I was thinking of drilling from the outside to relieve the pin on that side. Then I'd only have to heat the inside.  A neighbor talked about using a torch to "drill " into the pin but I don't think I'm that good with the torch

Ed

I have a broken master link.    I got a replacement from Zimmerman's which included the standard pin.   The master pin I have is still good.   My question is how to get the pin out of the broken section.   I don't have a press for the link pin and would like to just drive the pin out of the link with the track still partially on the machine if possible.   I have a good torch.   If I heat the link up, how easy is it to drive the pin out?

The 11 volts is at the battery terminal on the voltage regulator.    When the machine is running I get about 12.7 volts measured at the battery itself.  It drops to 12.4 or so volts when I turn the machine off so I think the generator and voltage regulator are OK.     I'm just wondering how the ignition switch is supposed to work.   Which position shuts off the Power to everything if this ever happens.    I know that the battery is connected directly to the starter, so I should have 12 volts there and on the cable that runs from the starter under the dash to the ameter I think.   Not sure about the rest of the system however.   I'll start to look at the wiring diagram but the copy I have isn't too clear.

I just put in a rebuilt generator and new regulator and now I have a problem I never had before.   With the key in any position I have 11 volts at the battery, or load terminals with the machine turned off.  The key has three postions besides the starter position (fully turned clockwise.)   There is one CCW from vertical, vertical and CW from vertical and finally one past the CW position that is springloaded and starts the machine.   Is this a factory switch?  I haven't been able to remove the insturment panel, the slotted screws are stripped.  I guess I'll have to drill them out and then use an easyout. The wires are all painted in the engine compartment so I can't see the color codes.  No lights on this machine. Any ideas?   

Good news - I'm back up and running.   I brought the starter back to the shop.   When I talked to them, I told them it was for a diesel.   The owner noticed that the starter had a smaller armature than he would have expected for this application, and a coil part that had aluminum in it (not exactly sure what part he was referring too).   He found some heavier duty parts in the shop and put these in and it worked fine.   For people's reference, the starter rebuild initially cost me $120 and and the generator with a new voltage regulator cost me $160.   For the secondary work he did I offered to pay him, but he said wait until I found out if it worked  before I gave him more money.   Anyone needing a good electrical repair shop in CT go to Harley's Auto Electric in New London.  I have an electrical wiring question since I still get voltage to the generator with the key shut off - I'll start a new thread for that.

I got my starter rebuilt because it was only turning over very very slowly.   Now when I first turn the key, the machine turns over very well but within a second or two the turning over turns to a crawl and the machine won't start.  It's a new battery but I also jump started it and had the same problem.    Also tried directly jumping to the starter itself (to eliminate the wiring) and get the same behavior.    I took the starter off to take it back to the shop but just wondering if anyone else had this problem.    Also notice that there seems to be a mechinical clanking when the motor is turning over fast.   Didn't remember this in the spring the last time I started the machine, but it never turned over as fast back then.   Tried a little starting fluid but  this didn't help.   I'm getting black smoke as it turns over so I think it's firing.

Thanks in advance for any help

Ed

I tried starting my machine the other day to get the water out of the bucket and I could barely get it to turn over.   I had started it in the early spring but it has been sitting outside idle since then.   The motor will turn over very slowly but that is it.   I tried jump starting it and even hooked my truck battery directly to the starter and a nearby ground and it did the same thing so I think I've ruled out bad wiring.    Is there a failure mode of these starters that gives this type of symptom.   Luckily the starter is one of the few things on the engine that I think I can remove with the endloader in the down position.

Should I get a local rebuild it or send it to a specialty shop like Zimmerman?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Ed

I got some answers on my question about Hydraulic Fluid in case anyone  else has the same question and does a search.   When I called Zimmerman's they recommended AW46.  The hydraulic shop I use asked their supplier and they thought the closest match for the 10W supplement 1 engine oil / Type A Automatic Transmission fluid recommended in the manual was AW32.    I did a little internet searching and this is what I learned.  

 My first question was what was the " Supplement 1" referring to?  From what I  found online it seems to be a reference to a MIL (military) standard for oil that was used in the 60's to signify a high quality engine oil.  I also found some information on the viscosity of the various oils.   It turns out that the Type A Automatic transmission fluid is more viscous than the 10W engine oil.  When I compared the recommended fluids with the AW32 and the AW46 I found that the AW32 was close to the 10W engine oil (just a little less viscous) and the AW46 was close to the Type A Automatic Transmission fluid (just slightly more viscous).  Based on this I decided to use the AW46 since I figured with a worn system, the higher viscosity might help.    I guess if you used the machine in a cold climate, the AW32 would be a better choice.  Hope this helps  others with similar questions.

I attached some of the info I found on the internet if others are interested.

Ed

I've got the 12 Volt system on the diesel.   I checked the two terminals on the generator and don't seem to have any voltage there.   Is this a standard generator that I can get new brushes for from NAPA?   Any other things to look for?   I'm assuming the voltage regulator is also  bad, it looks original. I"ll check it but does anyone know a good replacement for this?  

Thanks in advance.

Ed

Anyone have a recommendation for a good multi-viscosity hydraulic fluid for the OC-46?   While I'm doing my backhoe cylinder replacement I thought it would be a good time to flush the system and replace the fluid.   I've got an end loader on the unit also.   What is the best way to get most of the old fluid out of the system.   I don't want to go nuts to drain every drop.   Is there a strainer or filter for the fluid?

Thanks
Ed

I've got a Ware 400 trencher on my OC-46.  Just blew up my second cylinder (dipper) and after a $1000 replacement bill decided its time to work on the pressure relief.  Anyone know the setting.   I have a manual but the schematic that they say has the settings is missing.  Thanks for any information.

Ed

I got a manual for my OC-4 loader from The Floyd County Historical Society is in Charles City, Iowa, which is the home town of the Oliver Corporation.   They were reasonably priced, and came quickly.   I think they have a lot of information there also.

Best of luck.

I've got a few grease fittings on my machine that are so plugged up I can't get grease into them.  This is on both the loader and backhoe.   Anyone have any tricks on cleaning things up.  On a couple I've pulled the pins out, taken the fitting out and run a drill into the rust and dirt but I was looking for a way to do it without removing pins.  The backhoe parts are pretty heavy.