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I assume because you did not set up #1 on the magneto rotor with the upstroke of the #1 piston.

Did you check that they all rolled before you bolted them up? You didn't miss a clip?
It sounds like one bushing retainer has run-aground inside the roller itself. Try loosening off the roller shaft to track frame support nuts on each end in case that compression is causing it to bind - just a touch. If that works it'll likely bed in soon, and then you can tighten the nuts up again.

First of all, remove the sprocket dust shields, and just take a look at the sprocket nuts, the collets (cone washers) and studs to see how tight they are. I expect they are loose. If studs look solid but nuts are loose and collets undamaged, that may be your only problem, you never know. Just tighten them up.
Very few owners tighten the sprockets nuts as often as suggested in the manuals — and they DO come loose.
Start prayin'

But if more than the nuts are loose, then yes, you'll want to take them apart to check for structural damage somewhere in the final drives.

Best of luck.

They are cast steel. I'd go with a solution along the lines of Doug's suggestion.

This won't work for all the rollers, but with the trackframe in the position you mention, flipped over, position a jack stand under an accessible roller. Then you can hammer down on the track frame in that area after applying some penetrating oils etc. You can get two or 3 out this way on an OC-4 trackframe.

This at least gives you vertical force (parallel to the studs), whereas any of the leverage methods using a bar, apply the force somewhat obliquely which tends to bend the studs, making them even more impossible to remove.

Yeah, I have toiled over this problem too. It's enough to try the patience of a saint.
Doug is right — real heat seems to be the only solution.

I've tried all kinds of heavy leverage methods, penetrating oils, using bad words  etc. and for some rollers, just nothing else works.

I am sure they will be A-OK then. Just friction from the seal surface, I imagine. That'll wane pretty quickly.
I like the ingenious way you filled them as you go 

Have you oiled them up yet? Such that the oil is forced through the roller seals when it's full? It'll often make a gurgling sound as you pump it in. You want those bronze bushings to get lots of oil.

If the seals are installed lip inwards, you might get an air lock, as the oil cannot be forced out, which you don't want. Seal lips should be facing outwards.
Don't use grease! Only exception I've come across is JD Cornhead Grease.

Hi James.
If it was the Elba auction, remember those crawlers had been sitting for 15-20 years. I'm sure the carb, fuel line and tank outlet could use a good clean. If gas is 'peeing' out at the carb rhythmically then fuel pump is OK and gas supply is probably not your problem. I bet the carb needs cleaning. I know they soaked a bunch in carb cleaner. That smell you are picking up is probably the pungent smell of gas 'varnish' that's likely clogging up your carb jets.

I don't think it's the electrical side as they went through most of them beforehand and you have a healthy spark. They all run the same simple 12v system.
is this the one? I've posted photos of all of them here: https://business.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.704041333101713.1073741881.115094158663103&type=1&l=04a8e38f48

Is this the one (see photo)?
Good luck getting her running.

Thanks Robert. Yes, that's the idea.

I used to machine just the lip insert to save the hubs, and then I thought to combine the thin-walled seal retainer with it. I wonder if it's the seal retainer shifting under a shock load delivered via worn bearings that break those lips? It'd be interesting to know if more of them break on clutch steering units that delivery larger loads to a single final drive.

I made ten inserts. If I can get to tell more people about them, I'll make more. I guess, my eBay is an option.

Have a good one...Chris

I've designed an insert that allows for the bearing and the seal retainer to be pressed into the hub, all in one piece of steel — much stronger. In these photos, the seal is inserted at the bottom (#1) and the back (#2).

This is the lip Robert is talking about, with the seal retainer still inserted. Yes, it's often cracked-off entirely or chipped badly on bull gears that have taken some abuse.

Helicoils etc. will work fine. I've done quite a few — and I've heard it said, that the repaired studs have greater strength because of the increased surface area. I'm not sure if that's a myth.

http://www.olivercrawlers.com/using-heli-coils-on-final-drive-gears

If length means the axis, you wouldn't want the bronze bushing to stick out at one end. The bushings measure 1-5/8th and they fit nicely inside the 1-3/4 steel retainers.
If it's relevant, I sell the bronze bushings for $7.50 each (HG, OC-3, OC-4, OC-6).

I think they'd still be OK down to 1-5/8ths. The shaft would have some back and forth 'slide' in them, but I cannot see that being a great problem, if the oil is kept topped up.

It does sound feasible, but there's so many dimensions to take into account, I imagine you'd be searching for a very long time or have to have them custom-made. 1st gear on the top shaft is also reverse, then it has to mesh nicely with the sliding 1st and reverse on the bottom shaft.
I guess a good engineer could draw one up within all the constraints. But I imagine the first set would cost a fortune in terms of CAD and set-up costs.
It might be possible to put a complete OC-4 transmission, which is has a more highly geared first gear, into an OC-3, similar to the early OC-4's with the 4 cylinder IXB engines (1957-8)?