Messages

I posted some photos of replacing the bearings and shaft over on Blake's Cletrac facebook page.  It looks like the back lip of your pulley is missing.

Zimmerman's sells a replacement shaft and bearing kit that replaces all the inner workings in a fan pulley.

Welcome Tony,

I loved Queensland.  Got a chance to visit back in 1994.  I was with the United States Marine Band Pacific out Pearl Harbor Hawaii.  Really enjoyed all the VB.

Does anyone have any tips for removing suborn bearing snap ring retainers?

Has anyone ever removed the belt pulley shaft from their pto and plugged the hole?

Anyone have any tips for adjusting the clutch on an OC-3 with a Ware loader?

The last time I adjusted it I had a challenge over coming the spring tension on the release rod. It really made it a pain to get the yoke to clear the clutch pedal so I could spin it for adjustment.   Because of the loader, I had to make the adjustment from underneath.  If I remember correctly, I have to spin the yoke in to shorten the release rod to get the proper amount of free pedal travel?

Semper Fi

Is it possible that someone had the fly wheel off and put back on wrong?

Landis included their HG/OC-3 parts catalog with my latest parts order.

Welcome,

My Grandfather used an HG-68 to replace his team of horses.  He got tired of the horses sitting down when they got to the end of a row.  By the time he would get back the the barn to get the other horse, the first horse would be right behind him dragging the plow.  His farm was in a valley in NE Pennsylvania, it had steep side hills and low flat lands with a small meandering stream that over flowed its banks during heavy rains.  The crawler floated across the wet lands with ease.  With the 68" track centers it was also very stable on hills.  The only caveat is that it doesn't have live pto and its only 20hp.  A wide gauge OC-6 would probably be the ultimate for your needs.  Good luck.

Chris,

I just procured the Parts Manual for the 3WI loader, it has six different spool valves (2, 3 &4 spools) listed.

VIDDF26C (3 spool)
VIDD34C (2 spool)
VIDF39C (2 Spool)
VIDD44C (2 Spool)
6DAPDDD (4 spool) 77WI Loader
DA41 (4 Spool)

They must be for different applications i.e loader, forklift, backhoe & trencher.

I enjoyed the pages dedicated to how to convert it from a loader into a dozer by just removing the bucket and push arms.  Then mounting the push arms to the the mount under the crawler frame add your blade.  If you purchased a second set of push arms you never had to remove the upper arms.  Just remove the bucket drive into your dozer blade assembly push in a few pins and you were ready for dozing.  I always assumed those lower mounting holes were just for the backhoe.  What versatility for that era.  Now if it were only geared lower, had longer tracks and a three point hitch.  I guess thats why they needed to come up with the OC-4.

John,

Welcome aboard! Do you own a crawler?

Dave,

Everyone on this site has always been great to me (a novice shade tree mechanic).  I own a 55 oc-3 with a Ware WI loader, and my grandfathers 49 HG-68.  In addition to this site, the instruction manual, parts manual and Zimmerman Oliver-Cletrac of Pennsylvania have all been a great help keeping my machines running.  I think you may have a similar parts supplier on the west coast, Bechthold's.  I've spent hours searching though all the old posts on this site and still haven't read them all.
A few additional things I've learned :

1. Never put grease in your bottom rollers. The passages are so small and are designed for oil to flow around the bearings and bronze bushing.  Grease just clogs up the passages.
2. Learn how to time your machine.
3. Have a back-up set of points and condenser on-hand.  Your local parts store my not have these when you need them.
3. Check the bolts from your frame to bell housing.  The always seem to vibrate loose or strip out.  I still have to tap out and put a larger bolts in two of bell housing holes.
4. Pull the dust cover off your back sprocket mounting studs and make sure the mounting nuts are tight.

Welcome aboard!

I went out this morning and started checking the electrical.  I pulled my rotor cap off to check the points and found that the rotor mounting bracket had snapped off.  It looks like a few rotor teeth snapped off the rotor and probably lodged in the next gear tooth and through the rotor off axis snapping off the mount.  Prior I had observed a slight wobble in the rotor when I looked in the timing window of the magneto but didn't think much of it..  How it ever ran with a broken rotor mount is beyond me.

After I bolted on my back-up magneto the engine started right up so I thought I had the problem solved.  Well about 30 seconds later the engine cut out again.  Frustrated I cleaned up and went in for lunch. I saw Chris's post about possible water in the fuel so after lunch I took the fuel tank off and drained it completely.  Put clean fuel back in it and it started right up again and kept on running this time.  I hooked up my new purchase (an old IH ground driven potato digger) and dug a few rows of potatoes.  Chris, we were both on the right track FUEL!  Thanks for the help!

I can't get my OC-3 to run for more than 30 seconds before cutting out.  I suspected fuel so I disconnected the gas line and I have plenty flow and my the fuel in my bowl is clean.  I disassembled and cleaned the carburetor (marvel schebler), checked the float level and it was set to 1/4" as specified.  When I remounted the carburetor it started right up but it continues to cut out. It will start back up but dies again.  I guess I'll move onto spark tomorrow...

Thanks for the help guys.  I got the old gal running this past weekend.  Once it started I noticed the fan/water pump not turning. I was able to adjust the belt tension and got it tunning so I dodged a water pump rebuild for now.  Now on to the dripping oil pan......