Messages

Have you considered converting over to a distributor?  I converted my OC3 to use a Farmall distributor for around $100 and it works great.  Best thing is having options about which coil to use.

Jethrow

Nice looking machine; it looks straight.  I rebuilt the water pump on my OC3 with parts from Zimmerman.  Used some special water proof grease on the seals and bearing.  Can't remember if the grease came from Zimmerman or eBay.  The rebuild was also an excuse to buy the HF 20 ton press but the shaft pushed pretty easy.

Good luck

Subgates,

The space above the Oliver script on the manifold is blank on both my OC3 and spare motors.  Both are from Zimmermans and not original to the motors.

I corrected the engine miss when I replaces the valves and valve guides.  Big difference, no smoke!
Must have been the valve guides.

Instead of the vacuum gauge approach, I'm planning on buying a color tune spark plug in the spring to tune the carburetor.  It has a glass top that shows the combustion chamber mixture.  Changing the idle adjustment changes the color shown.  Spendy but no hacking of the manifold required.

Jethrow

Did a search for "Track Press" on the Yesterday's Tractor site.  First post shows a home made press that looks much like a log splitter.

Check out the other posts; there are plenty of safety warnings and experiences concerning use of a home made press.

Stay safe 

I agree with Blake, not much power. I had a 1950 Farmall Cub.  Other than mowing and cultivation, it could barely pull it's own weight.

A quick look at the TractorData site shows you would be giving up half the horsepower of a IXB3:


Farmall Cub Power:
Drawbar (claimed):   10 hp [7.5 kW]
PTO (claimed):   11 hp [8.2 kW]
Belt (claimed):   9.76 hp [7.3 kW]
Plows:   1 (12 inch)
Drawbar (tested):   9.87 hp [7.4 kW]
Belt (tested):   10.39 hp [7.7 kW]

Oliver OC-3 Power:
Drawbar (claimed):   22 hp [16.4 kW]


Jethrow

Not an Anderson blade but an interesting post adding blade angling to an OC3.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/52412-Adding-hydraulic-angling-of-a-dozer-blade-Part-I

Kirk,

Weight wise it's 2 x 400 pounds, dollar wise, I can't remember seeing them for sale.  Looks to be the same weight package used on the OC4's.

Jethrow

Nice looking machine.  Interesting placement of the fuel tank and gauges.

Are you running it without a hood, hard to tell from the views.  Can you post some pictures of the front.

Have you considered a weight package for the rear.  My OC3 will lift in the rear with just a full bucket of dirt.

Jethrow

My OC3 crawler has an IXB-3 engine and came with a TSX 403 carb.  I rebuilt the carb but was not impressed with the performance so I replaced it with a TSX 406.  If you post the stud spacing and throat opening of your manifold, I can compare it against the TSX 403.

There is a YouTube video showing a running IXK-3 engine at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FwCi7tat9A.

If you stop it 10 seconds in , you can make out the carburetor marking.

Let me add my congrats, post some pictures.  I use a chain fall in the barn to lift the loader when I need to.  Used it to swap engines on a dirt floor where a cherry picker won't roll.   I always prop up the loader with a post when I'm done for the day.  The chain fall is also comes in handy when removing the track frames or servicing the rollers.

That's a thought;

When the new valves arrive, I will mic a few cold and then pop them in the oven.  The cam followers or "push rods" aren't that long so the greatest gain from expansion would be in the valve.

I'm replacing worn valves and guides on an Hercules IXB-3 motor.  Manual calls for hot clearances of .006 intake and .008 exhaust.

The magneto has been swapped out for a distributor on this engine making it impossible to access all the tappets.   Anyone know what the clearances can be set to while the engine is apart.

Thanks

Yes,  on my IXB-3 there us a 1/4" bolt through the pulley and shaft.

Jethrow

Lowspeed,

Thanks for that information.  Looks accurate because the Service Manual states that the new guides must be reamed to .0025 inch clearance using a 5/16" reamer.  5/16 = .3125 - .3100 = .0025 and that would give the correct tolerance.  Now I just need to measure my valve stems.

I've seen valve guide seals for .310 valve stems for various engines.  It would interesting if they could be worked in somehow to avoid pulling the head.

Jethrow