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Back in the woods last summer I managed to jump a track off the drive sprocket.  When I looked for the master link I found that the PO had welded the pin in place.  I ground off as much of the weld as I could then I made up a frame to use with my porta-power.  I used two pieces of 1 inch dia. all-thread and two pieces of 2 1/2" x 5/16" angles, one on either side of the track with the all-thread running through the chain.  When the remnants of the weld finally let go it sounded like a rifle going off but it did move the pin and I was able to get the rack back on.  Now I have no idea if this would work for the other link pins but how much different could they be?  I guess the main thing would be that what ever you use to do the pushing (from the ram to the Pin) fit the top of the pin so that there would be no chance of it sliding off the top of the pin under load.

Chris,

Just checked out your FB page   and I must say that I'm most impressed  with the lead photo of you on an absolutely awesome OC3 equipped with the factory Jet Trencher.

CommandoTom

Thanks Blake, I'll check the advance on the weekend and see what I've got.  I also noted that the fracture surface also had the tell-tale clamshell markings of a cyclic fatigue fracture with a oval shear at final failure in the center of the shaft. This occurred at the step out board of the bushing in the face of the starter body.  Made me think that possibly the starter had been dropped at one time and without the support provided by the nose cap found in most "modern" style starters, the shaft may have been bent contributing to the failure. I say this but the starter seemed to turn smoothly when engaged with no noticable loading and unloading that one would think might be associated with a bent armature. All the electrics are there to set-up the original 6 volt system.  Is there anyone out there that use six volts to start their OC3's?  Do find starting your machines any more of a challenge as compared to applying 12 volts?   

Working with my OC3 over the weekend.  On Sunday about noon hit the starter button and the starter just "whirled".  When I removed the starter to investigate I found that the armature was now in two pieces.  Not a good thing!!  Was able to cobble together a functioning unit out of spares but the bushings are pretty sloppy.  Called on one of the major part suppliers on this list to get a quote on a rebuilt replacement unit.  When I explained my situation the first question was are you using a 12volt battery....I indicated I was  as I have read in numerous posts that using a 12 volts will not "hurt" the starter and it also makes sure that the cranking rpm is up for a hot spark from the mag for easier starts. Apparently this may not be the case as they are getting more calls for starters as others have experienced armature breakage also when appling 12 volts.  I'll let you guys make your own decisions as to what you want to use. But if you are using 12 volts I'd have a spare starter on hand just in case.  Oh and just so you know a re-built unit with shipping will set you back a little over $400.00.

If you still need a spring let me know and I'll check my parts pile, I'm sure I have one.

When there is a chance that the gasket is going to be displaced as the parts are being positioned I grab some sewing thread and tie the gasket in place.  Don't have to tie every hole just enough to hold the gasket in place.  Use a couple of the holes without the thread to start bolting whatever in place then cut and remove the threads as you run in the remaining fasteners.

Thanks  Chris. I was pretty sure it was the item but over the years I've learned that it's good ask because when you assume......well you know.  I must have boxes of parts that I thought would be a prefect fit for that special project.....NOT!!!!

Hello, looking at a paper pulley and was wondering if any of you might know if it is correct for the Cletrac HG/OC-3 PTO.
Measures about 8 1/4" diameter and 7 1/4" wide.  The hub is 1 1/4" diameter tapered bore with 1/4" keyway.  Weighs 14 pounds.  Inside the hub has the number "113864" in the casting. Four holes on the hub and eight through rivets holding the laminated paper together. Any and all help appreciated.
PS. If this isn't the correct one, does someone have one that they might part with.
Thanks