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THIRD GEAR!!!
You don't want the added torque breaking thinge in that hard-to-replace final drive.

The disk is just stuck to the flywheel with surface rust. Take out the starter, block down the pedal, you might be able to see the edge of the disk, I don't remember. Pry around on the edge  with something like a flat-bar wrecking bar or bent screwdriver. It should pop right off the flywheel.
Next time, remember to block down the pedal when you park it for the winter'

Mine's an OC3, it has a bar going all the way across with saddles and U-bolts. Drops right off.
Looks like you might need a rosebud tip and a BIG hammer.

When I pullled off the stuff that arches over the top, to get to the engine, I just borrowed a rivet cutting tip and torched off the bolts, then used new hardware.

Unless you plan on using dual valve springs with 200lb seat pressure and buzzing it up to 8000 rpm, I don't think it will be a problem. You could use 15/40 diesel like Rotella, I think it still has a little more ZDDP in it. (or will until the gummint finds about it.)

It's amazing the amount of rain water that can run down the shift lever and ruin the transmission.

Unfortunately, I speak from experience.

OK. I've rounded up the floor jacks, jack stands, impact wrench, engine hoist, cutting torch, and there's a keg in the fridge.
What's the best way to get the track frames off in order to pull out the transaxle? (Some kind soul has already welded the nuts to those frame studs which need to be pulled.)

There's a bearing going out in my OC3 transmission, probably the countershaft/layshaft whatever it's called.
What's the least hairpulling, wrenchthrowing, expletivedeleted, way of getting to it?
Thanks.

It's got the straddle mounted Anderson blade on it, which makes it almost impossible to even change the sparkplugs.
Did the people who designed these things look at a 9N and say to themselves "I think I can make repairs even more frustrating!"?

If you want to make a "show" tractor, there are places that make custom radiators for street rods. ($$$$) I just wanted to use mine, so I found a Honda radiator that would fit in the hole and fabricated some mounts. The inlet and outlet didn't line up, so I put it in backwards and used some LONG corrugated hoses over the top and under the bottom.

The way the idlers on an OC3 (and probobly other Cletracs) are designed, the oil lays in the bottom of the hollow roller, and dribbles down on the shaft when the roller rotates. If you use grease, it would probably stick to the inside of the outside of the idler (that make sense? think spin cycle on a washer) and never get to the shaft.
I got a cheap air powered grease gun from Harbor Freight, turned over the rubber cup in the barrel so the lip points up, and got lots of rags.
A retired Mobil lube engineer friend told me not to worry about rear end oil corroding the bushings, that this only happens at extremely high temperatures, hundreds of degrees .
The early style Anderson blade on mine has adjustable pads to keep the blade from digging into the asphalt. We've got no snow out here, but it works great when the gully washers deposit the corrals down the driveway.  

I unstuck mine by blocking down the pedal, pulling the starter and prying on the edge of the clutch disk with a flat blade wrecking bar. Popped right loose.

I think that archived post was mine from a while ago. Anyway, the Harbor Freight gun works better if you take the plunger out of the barrel and turn it over, so it's more like a brake cylinder. The reason for the pneumatic gun is that it takes LOTS of pump strokes to fill a roller.

Make that MUST not be connected to the electrical system!
One time I accidentally got 12V on the Wico mag on my sailboat, and de-magnitized it.  

The spacer on mine is a hunk of rolled 3/8 thick channel, 9"web & 2" legs.
The pin holes are 13" c/c.
Primitive, but it works ok for cleaning corrals. (The little sucker even fits inside the barn.)
The oil blowout explaines why somebody bypassed the oil tank on mine and mickey-moused another on the side.

While looking for a starter for my Ford flathead, I found this.
http://www.autoelec.com/html/oliver_cle ... educt.html

Accidently put 12V on the WICO mag on our sailboat engine once, and killed the magnets. Had to have it re-magnetized.

Maybe look into something like a Post Office Jeep or the IHC 2WD Scout.