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I'd go with Doug's solution except for the radiating cracks from some of the holes. That would worry me, I hate doing things twice. If did I'd be sure to clean the oil out of the cracks as best I could & use some wicking loctite to try to keep them "glued" together. Since they are steel, welding & re-drilling is at least, another option.

Scott R

Well, if it ran for 8 to 10 seconds you're very close. If you had fuel continuing to run after the engine died I'd say it more than likely flooded. It sounds like a bad needle & seat in the carb or debris in the fuel holding the needle open. Since it hasn't run in years I would expect all kinds of stuff coming out of the exhaust, bugs, pieces of rust etc. Glad to hear another Cletrac has been "resurrected". Sorry it was so long for the reply, work is backed up now & a lot of people here are in the field this time of year. I'd love to see some pictures, I'm sure everyone else would too. Good luck.

Scott R.

Icenine, I'll give it a try. If you are having trouble turning the engine over take all four spark plugs out. This will allow the engine to turn easily & smoothly.
The mark you see is a "D-C" if it's the same as my flywheels. The "D" may have a small "L" inside of it. That should the the "dead center" mark. That's when the piston is exactly at the top of its stroke. The "spark" line is 1 1/2 inches BEFORE you get to the "D-C" line, when you turn the engine in the direction the engine runs. When you see that mark & feel compression on the front cylinder you are in the right spot.
In your picture I see yellow paint on two teeth of the magneto gear, if that is what i see, you should also have a mark on one tooth on the "rotor". The rotor is the black gear with the pointer arm, with the white line on it. If you line up the tooth marked on the rotor, with the yellow paint marked teeth on the magneto, you should be able to turn the magneto so the white line on the pointer of the rotor so you can see it in the window on the magneto cap. With it in this position you should be able to mount it to the engine just snug. Install the plugs & wires & it should be able to start. Install a timing lite & shine it at flywheel, move the magneto back & forth. You should be able to bring the line so it shows in the center of the timing hole. Then lock the magneto in place. 

See if that makes sense??!!

Scott R

You might try Triodiode on E bay, he's got tons of delco parts & ships many parts for free, got some rebuild parts, for the same starter you have, over the summer. They were original delco factory stuff. Good people to deal with. I've got no affiliation other than being a purchaser.

Scott

You guys are practically neighbors, welcome Abe.

Scott

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Well that depends Steve! Do you have any more space to park another? That's how I determine how many I should have! Welcome aboard !

Scott

Looks like an HG to me too, if you can't find the serial number plate check for a casting date, cast into the engine block behind the magneto. Never seen one with a coil spring & shock absorber under the seat. The 3-point hitch has a hydraulically adjustable top link & looks like the front support arms have been either replaced or welded solidly to the track frames, maybe the blade manufacturer?

Scott

Great story Troy! It's always best to establish your tractor hobby precedent before finalizing anything with a girlfriend. Hopefully she'll want to be involved, and perhaps... she'll even want her own!

That could get expensive, LOL! Welcome to the group Troy, please send pictures!

Scott

Will, your OC3 with a three point hitch is indeed a rare bird, would love to see some pictures. As for the "grease pot", that may be why your rollers & idlers are worn. The rollers & idlers should only be supplied with oil, 90 weight mineral oil to be specific. Many people thought grease would be better but once dirt gets into the grease it becomes like grinding paste & wears out the roller/idler bushings. You are supposed to oil all the rollers/idlers daily, this pushes out the dirt to reduce wear. The only exception to this is John Deere "corn head grease" intended for corn harvesting machinery, it is a solid when not in motion but as soon as it gets moved around it becomes a liquid.  Good luck. Scott

I have a Ditzler paint chip card for tractors, it's antique too, it lists Cletrac Orange as part number DAE-60045. Hope it is helpful to someone.
Scott

Just purchased a backhoe attachment for an OC3/HG. Needs some hoses & I think it's missing a part or two. Is there any info on these floating around the internet? The foot attachment is in pretty bad shape but it's easy to fabricate I think. I'm mostly looking for how it exactly attaches & what parts I may be missing. The fellow I got it from bought it from Oliver Chris a few years ago, never got around to messing with it & ended up buying a nice kubota with loader & hoe attachment. Funny that it took his new bx5800 Kubota & a little Yanmar tractor to lift this monster high enough to get it up on my trailer even though it's only 16 inches off "the deck"
Any & all help is appreciated.
Thanks Scott.

Mike there is another way that may help you date your machine. Cast  into the block on the right hand side, behind the magneto is a six number date. This is the date the engine block was cast at the Hercules engine factory. It is my understanding that cylinder blocks were allowed to "season" for a year before they were machined & assembled into engines, so your should be about a year, + or -, newer than that date.

Scott
Edited for stupidity**

Mike,
If it still has the tractor SN plate it will be located either on the flywheel housing right hand side, or the right frame rail just in front of where the large "U bolt" that wraps around the drive housing, bolts to the frame.  The IXK3 engine was first used in 1940 but continued to be used until 1950. If it has any of the original paint or decals they can be helpful in dating an HG/OC3. There is a link on the Cletrac.org page that will take you to a list of updates on the HG/OC3 tractors. If you still have difficulty in dating it, next time you need parts, Zimmerman's may be able to give you a date with the engine SN. Good luck & welcome to the forum
Scott

I've not done it yet, but I plan on adding the adapter plate that is commonly used on skid steer loaders these days. I plan on having multiple accessories like a set of pallet forks, snow plow blade, hydraulically driven trencher and of course a bucket. The adapter plate is quick & easy to change accessories by flipping two levers & pitching the top of the plate foreword to hook it to the accessory then roll the implement back & flip the levers & your good to go! At that point, anything you can put on a skid steer will work on my HG.

Scott

Great find Erik! Love to find an early 'trac like that. Keep the pictures coming.
Scott