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Starter repair is complete and I have received my magneto back from Mainely Magnetos. Here are photos of the two repaired units:





Starter repair came in at about $104.00. (Starter is a Pertronics unit.) Magneto repair came in at $247.00 (with return shipping) plus my original shipping costs of about $21.00 bringing the total to about $268.00.

I've installed the starter but not the magneto at this time. I hope to install the mag and try spinning the engine over this weekend.

Starter work done by Spinning Electronics (AKA Glenwood Auto Electronics) out of Silt, Colorado.

I tried jumping the OC-3 from my Ford 8N (6-volt system) and found the starter would not turn over. I puled it off and took it to a local auto electrical shop; the repair quote came in at $100.00. I'll pick up the starter in a few days.

Question: Does anyone have a spec on the spring in the starter drive that returns the gear to its normal disengaged position? The shop said they could take a guess but if I can find out that would help in the repair.

Have not wired it yet. Found a local shop that will test generator, starter, and regulator for $20.00 and clean and repair as needed.

Generator is not in the stock location; it looks like a kit was installed to move the generator up near the water pump. Will take photos of this and post them along the way. Regulator has FoMoCo (Ford) markings and is rated at 36 amps.

Some where along the way a solenoid was added, mounted to the Ware loader frame, and I plan to revert back to the stock starter system which means I will be buying a starter switch and the box it is mounted in. Battery cables are in bad shape and will also be replaced. Plenty of work to do!

How far did you move that marching on your trailer? It looks like it was a bit over loaded? No?

Not as much as you would think. The trailer is made out of a 50's camping trailer and features a 5,000 pound capacity axle and load range D tires (4,300 pound rating.) I figure I was right on the edge with the tires (3,800 pounds for the tractor and another 600 pounds for the loader frame?) but with the bucket and blade and their frames in the back of the F-150 the weight was not entirely on the trailer.

Moved it from Omaha, Nebraska to near Grand Junction, Colorado, about 780 miles. I-80 and I-70 most of the way, I-76 connects the two. Weather was cool and I stayed around 65mph.

I am starting to look for a 7,000 pound capacity dual-axle trailer which would be better suited and could also handle my '48 8N tractor. Already have a brake controller in the F-150 as I pull an RV trailer so just looking for a suitable trailer. Won't have to worry about it until the OC-3 is running which may take a while. Have sent the magneto off to Mainely Magnetos; they received it late last week. Will probably be several weeks until I get it back.

'59 Manual for an OC-3 specs out Champion J8 plugs. Of course, that was a long time ago but the '53 I am starting to work on has at least a couple of J8 plugs in it. These cross to an Autolite 295 which seems to be the plug of choice from what I have seen as a newcomer to this site. OC-3 engine is the IXB.

Well, the mag was not as described. It will not throw a spark and the stop post assembly is missing. I'll send it to Mainely Magnetos and have it repaired. I did try cleaning and re-gapping the points and used the bent paperclip method to check for a spark. (Paper clip inserted in #1, bent to within 1/4 inch of cap bolt, impulse snapped over OK.) Hate it when people are not honest about what they are selling. Should have insisted in seeing pictures at the least, I guess. Live and learn. Biggest bummer is that it Steve at MM said it would take about 7 weeks to get the magneto back. I'll move on to other tasks but really had wanted to see if the engine would fire before I went further.

I received the schematic, Thank you!

Thank you for the photo. My parts have arrived but I have not had time to install them yet.

Minor update:
I pulled the plugs (a mix of Champion J8 and others) and sprayed some Deep Creep penetrating oil into the cylinders. Removed the 2nd radiator. Removed the old fan belt. (Water pump spins free.) Removed the air cleaner assembly and dumped out a bunch of crud. Oil cup looks surprisingly clean. Removed the old heater hoses that were run to the 2nd radiator.

Am waiting on the parts and service manual ordered from Floyd County Museum so I can see where the heater hose connections should go. One hose comes out of the water pump, another comes out of the block just in front of the starter, third comes out of a port on the back of the head and runs up to the top water outlet going into the radiator.  Photos I've seen so far don't show these hoses, just the top and bottom radiator hoses. First and second hoses were the ones run to the extra radiator, water pump hose to the top port and block hose run to the bottom port. This might indicate the main radiator has problems cooling and the 2nd radiator was added as a partial solution. I'll find out as I move along.

Here is what the OC-3 looked like when I arrived to pick it up at the auction site in Omaha, Nebraska. Ware 3WI loader and blade were part of the lot. Note a few "modifications" to the tractor; 2nd radiator up front and generator moved to a higher location behind the fan blade.

I live in western Colorado and brought the tractor home by loading the blade and bucket in the back of my F-150 and putting the OC-3 on my 4x10 utility trailer which is set up with a 5,000 pound suspension.



Engine is not frozen, a good thing, but the rehab process is going to be long on this one! (This is my first rebuild project.) I have started a photo gallery on my web site; address is http://www.appleattic.net/Galleries/oc3crawler.html

Total cost of the tractor was $587.00 which included internet auction fees and a fee for putting the sale on a charge card. Winning bid was $500.00. The OC-3 is a 1953 model OC3-42-Ind, serial number 3501709.

First tasks:
Change oil and filter. (Fram C252 or equal, 5W-30 oil.)
Install magneto.
Install new spark plug wires and plugs. (Autolite 295 to start. Plug wires are copper core.)
Clean and rebuild carb.
See if I can get the engine to fire.

More later as I move ahead.

I will be posting to this thread as I move ahead on trying to get my "new" (but much neglected) 1953 OC-3 started and in running condition. It will be a diary of sorts along with info that I pick up along the way.

The OC-3 was missing the magneto, grill, and clutch linkage. I have acquired the first, a Wico XH1113, from a Craig's List ad. Unit is working and pretty clean. I paid $90.00 total, $75.00 for the mag and $15.00 for shipping.

Clutch linkage and air cleaner tubes and hoses came from Zimmerman's and cost, with shipping, $89.00. $28.00 for linkage, $38.00 air cleaner tubes and hoses, and $23.00 shipping.

A carb rebuild kit came from McDonald Carb for $17.99. I bought a few other non-related parts so shipping was free.

Floyd County Museum supplied the parts manual (original!) and a reprint of the Owner's Manual for $67.00, $30.00 for each manual and $7.00 shipping.

A new set of cooper-core spark plug wires with 90-degree ends came in at $23.00 with shipping. I probably could have found these for a bit less but purchased them through my local implement store where I do business from time to time. I do like to shop local when I can.

I have some work ahead of me to install these pars and rebuild the carb, then it will be time to see if the engine will fire. Wish me luck.

Subgates:

Thanks for the reply. I don't do Face Book so can't go that route. If you could send me a copy I would appreciate it!

Jerry Fields
PO Box 278
De Beque, CO 81630

E-mail: jerryfields@mac.com

The wiring harness on my OC-3 is shot. When I brought it home most of the wiring was disconnected or missing. I've located a schematic for an OC-4; does the OC-3 use basically the same wiring? If not, does anyone have an OC-3 schematic I could get?

Here is the OC-4 diagram:


No lights on mine to worry about.
Thanks.

Thanks for the photo. It gives me some idea as to what I should be looking at. Still waiting on parts, should be here early next week.

How does the linkage connect inside the bell housing, or does it just press up against something?

According to the good folks at Zimmerman I should have a rod, spring, and offset clevis to connect the clutch pedal to the throw-out bearing. Parts are on their way, along with tubes and hoses to connect the air cleaner to the carb. Don't have manuals yet so would still appreciate a photo of the clutch linkage if anyone has one!

Just started working on my "new" OC3 and realized the clutch pedal isn't hooked to anything. There is a rod with a 90 degree bend coming out of the bell housing (see photo) and it is threaded on the end.

This is my first OC3 and I have never seen one at a local show so I don't know what I am supposed to have as a linkage between the clutch pedal and throw-out bearing. Can anyone tell me what parts I need, am missing, or need to fabricate or buy?
A photo would be helpful!