Messages

While trying to improve my existing Aux Trans setup, I've found a way to make the coupling more user-friendly and stable.  Using 2 Chain-Couplers'  I got from Surplus Center and cutting the ears off and machining down stock HG joints to make  splined bushings,  the new set-up fits quite nice.   I've used John DeMarris' hook-uip for 4 years now and it never let me down but I could'nt never get the slop out of the joints.  This set-up is easy to install and allows for removal of the trans if need-be and handles up to 200 ft.lbs. of torque which is more than enough.
                                        C.M. DeLong

I put the shaft there because thats the way the man showed it done!.....Works well.
here is your dimensions from the aux transmission information section on the main page of this site.

http://www.cletrac.org/media/aux_trans/modified_housing_drawing.jpg

Choppa.........Here are a few pics of how I did my conversion.  I think I cut down the Model A throwout Brg Housing on my lathe to make it shorter.

http://s1026.photobucket.com/albums/y326/DeLong1/dozer%20Clutch%20conversion/

cdelong@mhcable.com

Choppa................You won't find one exactly like this one as I made the set-up from a few different sorces.  The Frame mount and push arms are older Anderson, Blade is from a Ware HG loader setup, and pistons are modified Oliver "88" Ind loader.  Grill and piston mount was fabricated by me from steel and Alum diamond plate to house the hyd pump, filter, battery, hyd tank.
    Works well with excellent power and control.  Just last month I added the Bradco 9HD backhoe which has awsome power.

Here is a  stock  distributor on my 1948 1xb3 that came out of an avery tractor.  Where the mag mounts there is a stock hydraulic pump that was hooked to the belly cultivator on the avery tractor.
            C.M. DeLong

Hello all from the snowy Northeast..........We've had so much snow in the last week....52".... that I had to bring out the dozer to help out my Ford Explorer plow.   These little dozers are perfect for pushing back the banks or breaking a path thru the deep snow.  With the aux transmission and built-up grousers,  it's almost unstoppable!
       One question I have is....has anyone else used a mixture of gear oil  and powdered graphite in the bottom rollers and front idlers?  Does anyone see a down-side of it??   I have used it for years in other old gearboxes, rear-ends with real good luck.  Although it would NOT work well with the brake bands in these trans-axels.
                C.M. DeLong

Mike.........his number could be valid, my number is 9WH,  where is that in the book?  Here is a pic of it:

http://mhcable.com/~cdelong/HG%20Dozer/ ... 010055.JPG
                  C.M. Delong

Thanks Mike..........I studied the pictures on your site quite a bit before coming up with this mounting.  I had my cylinders pretty much where yours are only about a foot more to the rear but with that size piston and such a straight pull, I didn't have the lifting power while pushing a blade full, so I redesigned it.  Thought about valving them independent so the blade would have tilt, but then I'd have to put the rear of the push arms on a trunion and where they connect to the blade also.  Could be done but didn't think this size dozer warranted it.  The solid side panels are 1/4" alum diamond plate and serve two purposes......first they reinforce the cylinder mounting area and also protect the radiator as I'm in the woods with it quite a bit.  Hasn't overheated yet , the area below the grill has about a 1" slot full length but have thought about drilling both side panels to match the front.  The Best thing I done to it was the model A aux trans, what a difference in pushing power. I used it alot before but now the power is unlimited, traction is the problem.  With all the added steel I got the weight up to 4680lbs.  I have to get my other tracks finished with the built up grosers.  Then I'll probably break something!
                               Craig

It isn't different, the hood is stock cletrac............just don't have it fastened on.  There is a strap under it holding the gas tank on.   I'm having my spare radiator rodded out so everything is not fastened as it should be, till I install it.
              DeLong1

After a complete disassembly and recondition of all  parts and assemblies ,  my OC3 lives again.  Now it just needs cleaning and painting before I can call it done.  Made many changes to dozer including DeMarris AUX trans (works very well), Braden PTO winch(10,000 lbs), modified blade lift cylinders and mounting, sub-frame for winch and dozer blade.  There are many construction photos on my site http://mhcable.com/~cdelong/HG%20Dozer/HG%20Dozer/
I'll try to post a couple along with this post...........hope I can figure it out!

Anyone have a guide as to what year a OC3-42 Serial # 9WH 384 was produced??  I bought an old HG and a OC 3 for parts for my HG rebuild and luckly got a perfect set of bull & pinion gears  along with many other good parts.  Also got a perfect set of tracks but have the 6" pads on them,  I have a good set of 10" pads that I am going to put on the good chains.  The pad rivets measure 17/32........1/2" bolts would be a little sloppy so I am going to use 9/16" sae grade 8 bolts,  will have to ream the holes a little.  Has anyone else changed pads and what did you use to fasten them?            Thanks,  DeLong1

Here is a place I found while searching the net for rings...........good luck
               DeLong1

http://www.dol.net/~dave.reed/otto.htm

When installing a new front crank seal in a 1xB3,  are there any special considerations as to sealer between the rubber band and the seal and the rubber band and the timing case/oilpan??  Any other little quirks or things to look for when  reassembling the 1xb3??
          Thanks,  DeLong1

Thanks for the reply John,  I guess I was jumping the gun a little as I don't have the final apart yet.    20 years ago  some of the balls from the pinion brg got in the pinion and bull gear teeth, wasn't a pretty sight.  I made a few teeth out of 7018 welding rod and that kept it going for a few more years. Then I grafted a bull gear from a Avery (GG) on the hub and that went a few more, now  It has sat for a dozen years or so now I going to fix it up with a few modifications.  Rebuilt engine, DeMarris Model A trans,  Braden 10,000 PTO winch on the back.    I have posted a few pics' on my site if you want to view the progress.  Will be updated as I continue  with the repairs.  
    Here is a link to my site;
      http://mhcable.com/~cdelong/HG%20Dozer/