Oliver DD solenoid stuck on

[kwilde]

just wondering if any one had a solenoid for a oliver dd 1948 24v because i cant leave my batteries connected because the solenoid has burnt out and is trying to crank over all the time, the solenoid got very hot and now it doesnt want to work at all, can someone please help me here
thanks

[Bob]

The one that I ended up replacing on my DD starter was a common 24 volt solenoid. I don't have a part number right off, but if I remember I will check sometime in the next couple days.

Bob

[q4016lanz]

Hi Kane and Bob My son Brad thats Kane's mate said the govener is slow to react how do you adjust it so it comes in faster under load

[Bob]

Gee you kinda have me on that one right off... I'll have to investigate that one a little...

I'm actually in the process of rebuilding a DRXB at the moment. Ground crank, all new bearings, rings, valve job, injection ump and luckily somebody already did the injectors. More money in it than its worth... It should be pretty nice when done. Its in a 40 Diesel.

Bob

[Bob]

52or 57 MT stick in mind for that solenoid...

[Bob]

The part number on my solenoid is REF 1115559. If that doesn't work, I'll try to find something different. Now that I think about it, this solenoid did the same , stuck on and oozed burnt smelling electrical stuff out...

Found the invoice! It's a 24 volt 40 mt. At least this one.

[hotratz]

Bob, You know you can buy a can of electrical ooze and top it off. 

[Bob]

Sweet! And to think I just bought a new one...

[kwilde]

well thank you for that it will be most helpful i was also wondering if anyone knows how to take the water pump off of the drxb motor in my dd, ive taken the oil filter assembaly off and undone the 3 bolts on the oil filler end but it only comes about 6-10 mm before stopping

[Bob]

I think it you may have to turn the pump a little as you pull on it. The gear is cut at a slant to mesh with the others. I would have thought it would have come out easily, but...

[kwilde]

i figured it out there was a locking nut with a split pin which holds the impellar on the shaft and stops it comming off. does any one know where i could get a new shaft for the water pump as the old allows a leak around the shaft in the bearing, or if anyone has the specifications to make a new one it would be greatly appreciated

[Bob]

We made one for my friend's BD. It wasn't too hard, made it out of stainless. Don't have specs, we just winged it. Maybe you can weld it up being careful not to warp it and turn it round again

[Blake Malkamaki]

If you need to make a new shaft, consider having it hard chromed. I made a new piston rod and valve rod for my Rumely steam engine several years ago. After I machined them to slightly over sized diameter, the place precision ground them to smoothness and then hard chromed them. If you did this to a water pump shaft, I doubt it would ever leak or wear out again.

[kwilde]

thanks very much i will have to make a new shaft because i dont have a very good welder, i will buy some stainless steel shaft steel and turn it down and then have it ground to fit the parts e.g. bearing impellar and oil seal. how do you remove the shaft from the timing case and the gear from the shaft (if possible), or is it advisable to just buy a new gear for the shaft.

[Bob]

That is how I have always taken them apart, pulling the gear out of the timing cover then tearing the pump apart. I think the gear should come off the shaft. I can't remember if it is splined or not. That could be the only problem.

Blake is right, hard chrome would work nice, or the stainless shaft. I haven't had too much problems machining stainless, but its up to the shop I guess.

Bob