Inner support bracket bushing

[erik]

Was going to change the inner support bracket bushings today but got confused and need some help.
1, How does the inner part of the bushing get greased?
2, Is the bushing supposed to have a tight fit on the axel, in the support bracket or at all?
3, The new bushing from Zimmerman has a nice bearing surface on the inside but a ruff outside, how does this go when grease only applies on the outside surface?
4, Someone had drilled a hole in the old bushing, Zimmermans does not have a hole (see picture). Is this a good way of getting grease on the inside?
5, There was a spacer between the support bracket and the final drive housing, can't find it in the parts catalogue. Does any one know the original dimensions of the spacer? Mine is in a very bad shape.

The hole in the support bracket where the bushing goes has some wear so the bushing falls into place with a lot of play. How much play is recomended?

Thanks alot
Cletracker

[Edited on 7-4-2004 by erik]

[erik]

Picture of  the inner support bracket spacer that I can't find in the parts catalogue.
Cletracker

[Crawler Boy]

About the bushing it sould fit tight in the bracket and turn on the shaft if not so
you could use locktite for bushing unless its not to much play,
and you probably need to drill a hole
in the bushing when its mountet in the bracket so the oil can go throug

I have operators manual with pictures of the finaldrive if you need.

If you need more advice you can call me on my cellphone we have talked before
so you probably have my number

Hasse Sweden

[erik]

There are "grease" groves in the support bracket which lets the grease come around the bushings outside. I think the bushing should be tight on the axel and rotate inside the support bracket.

Hasse I'll call you.

Blake and Ray what do you think?

Cletracker

[Ray]

erik,
The bushing or sleeve should fit tight on the hub, because the hub is not replaceable, this sleeve is your only replaceable part for the inside hub. The sleeve should not have a hole drilled into it, because you don't want grease to get between the sleeve and the hub. If the sleeve fits loose on the hub, it is probably worn and should be built up with nickel welding rods or sometimes you can get an oversized sleeve made to fit so everthing fits tight. Our sleeves are made to the original size plus a few thousands, if it is real loose the hub has quite a bit of wear. The hanger is replaceable and is availible. If you have any questions let me know.
Good Luck,
Ray

[erik]

Thanks Ray!
The sleeve fits a little loose on the hub which probably is worn. I'll take some measures and see if I can get an over size bushing. Think I have to put the bracket in a lath and make the hole round and oversize then it will be like new.

Can you shed any light on the spacer?

Cletracker

[Ray]

Can you shed any light on the spacer?

It seems not every crawler had them, they were used only when needed to shim excess space between the bracket and final drive. However we do have them availible part # 50420 and the thickness is 1/16" or  .0625"

Ray

[erik]

Well Ray, what can I say, you sit on a gold mine of Cletrac info!

Thanks a lot once more.

Cletracker

[ggibby]

Should the axle be pressed out of the housing before one tries to build up the housing?
How about replacing that whole part of the housing by welding on a new piece after cutting off or machining off that part?
I would be nice if the housing could be saved.
Regards,
George Gibby

[Ray]

ggibby,
No need to remove the shaft at all, actually I would recommend not to remove it so there is more metal there to absorb the heat.
As far as removing and replacing the whole stub, that would be very tricky in getting every thing lined up for the gears on the inside. I have seen it done allready, but it never looked very successful.

Ray