OC3

[Seabee on AC]

New to this forum, Have been restoring tractors for about ten yrs now. It appears I have a disease that there is no known cure!  I have never done a crawler and am currently looking at a few. I have found an Oliver OC3 crawler loader, mid 50's, rebuilt hyd & rams, very very good condition, with and extra motor. It runs very well and no welds or repair marks visable. Being that im new at crawlers what should I look for and what is an honest price for the above mentioned. Thanks and if I do purchase one im sure Ill be on here a ton! Did the OC3 have planitary gears running the drives?

[Mike Shanley]

It sounds like you are looking for all the right things.  A look at the sheet metal will usually tell you the care that the machine was given.  Loose and broken bolts.  Tracks look true and in adjustment.

The Cletrac differential has planetary gears operated by brake bands.  No clutches in the final drives, just brake bands.  Mike Shanley, Woodbury MN

[550DarrinWI]

I'm in no way an expert like some on this forum but I have learned somethings the hard way. . .

First, I would ask the current owner if they have an oil gun that they are selling with the crawler.  If the crawler is running and has seen recent use by the current owner -- existence or non-existence of the oil gun will tell you alot about the current owner's knowledge of the crawler and the maintenance it has received.

Second I would get on the ground and closely examine the rollers, especially a loader machine (front or back rollers will probably be suspect).  Heck, if you can, jack the machine up and you can get a different perspective on the tracks and rollers that way.

Third, I would grab the drive spockets and front idler wheels and give them a good shake.  You'll find out if you have bad bushings on the front idlers and you'll find out about bad bearings or loose studs on the sprockets.

Fourth, I would look at the grease and dirt.  Where is it coming from and why?  Compare dirt and grease patterns on one side versus the other - it often tells a story.

Fifth, I would take the time to pull the plugs on the transmission/differential case to check for oil, water, sludge, or nothing.  Same with the final drives.  Pull the plugs and see what comes out.

Sixth, I would learn how undercarriage percentage is really calculated vs. guessed at by the average seller/buyer.  The track pitch (pin to pin measurement) of a new OC-3 is 5.875".  The link height is 3.5" (when link height gets below 3.25" it is time to worry).   All of this was found in the March/April 05 issue of Oliver Heritage, byline Landis Zimmerman.  Lastly, check the sprocket teeth for wear.

Seventh, if you buy it, stop at a car wash on the way home and hose her down. . .

Eighth, buy the Operators manual and Parts manual.

Ninth, get ready to call Landis Zimmerman for parts www.olivercletrac.com

Tenth, don't be affraid to post your questions on this forum.  There are lot of folks with good knowledge that can help you out.  10b)  a good search of the archives based on your search term can reveal a lot past info.

Good luck - it is a lot of fun.

[Mike Shanley]

I have met Darrin -- in my opinion he is an expert.  He bought an OC3 that was run hard and put away wet.  He is in the process of putting it in working condition and has learned a lot about these machines.  All of his points through 10b are valid and should be considered when looking to purchase an HG or OC3.

All of these machines are approaching or over fifty years old; don't think you are going to find one in show-room condition.  Look them over closely and then decide how much it is worth to you.

And yes, I have met Landis Zimmerman -- Expect him to become a partner in your project; He is an expert, well connected and one of the best resources for Oliver/Cletrac parts in the world.  Mike Shanley, Woodbury MN

[550DarrinWI]

Thanks for the kind words Mike.  Expert?  Well, I am learning more each day - that is for sure.  The work on the OC-3 continues at a slower pace.  I've been busy with other summertime/family committments and some days it has just been too hot to be out in the garage.

For the benefit of others reading the post and myself. . .Did I write down the part numbers wrong for the track roller seals?  No one seems to be able to match the part numbers I wrote down during our visit. . .

Tisco 70218450 or Chicago Rawhide 15039CR1

Do these numbers look right, wrong, or in between?

[Jack in NB]

The C/R number 15039 is correct. Others work as well: C/R 15005, National 450059, 470380. 1.5" x 2.37" x .5". Width may vary.

And remember that the lip points outward on installation - to keep dirt out, and let the oil flush dirt outward. I only screwed one side (6 seals) last time.

[Mike Shanley]

Jack is correct.  The Chicago Rawhide number is CR15039...The National Seal number is NA450059 and the TISCO number is 15039 CRI.  Tisco item number is 929883.  It took me a few days to remember to look these up.  Mike Shanley, Woodbury MN

[Blake Malkamaki]

The C/R number 15039 is correct. Others work as well: C/R 15005, National 450059, 470380. 1.5" x 2.37" x .5". Width may vary.

And remember that the lip points outward on installation - to keep dirt out, and let the oil flush dirt outward. I only screwed one side (6 seals) last time.

Make sure the seals are real rawhide or leather. The plastic seals will not hold up as well.

Blake