kpfarmer · April 06, 2009, 03:06:40 AM

I started the same type of reconstruction last winter. Springtime brought an end to the project for the year. This winter didn't give me any time to work on it either.

I had much the same situation as you, hachet job engine install, chopped frame, junk roll cage, etc. I stripped it to the undercarriage and rear end.

I went back with a full 2x4 rectube frame and since the original front suspension had been replaced by some kind of weird inverted leaf spring operation I changed that too. I built a basic tractor front end so that the tracks would articulate much like a tractor.

I widened the frame (easy since I started from scratch) and plan to use the frame as a hydraulic resevoir.

I was given an 86 Nissan pickup with working drivetrain. I disassembled the transmission because the full length was going to be to long for the track length. I kept first and second gear and welded a plate on the rear of the tail shaft with seals for the output shaft and gear selector shaft.

Alot left to do. Adapt output shaft to crawler transmission, install radiator, install engine electrical system, and create a hydraulic system. Do it in a weekend right?!

Just wanted to let you know you're not alone out there.

kpfarmer · April 06, 2009, 04:24:03 PM

It's cold and raining here so I had some time to take some pictures this morning.

I don't have a public domain to post the pictures so pm your email address and I'll send them to you with an explaination of what I did.

kpfarmer · April 07, 2009, 02:18:46 PM

Here are the pictures of what I have done so far. Sorry for the watermark, I'm still figuring this picture thing out.

Heres what I started with.

I used the motor mounts that I removed from the truck. I hope they will hold the torque. I widdened the frame to 22 inches so I could get the motor lower in the frame.

This shows how the reduced transmission length keeps the engine as far back it the frame as possible.

Heres the transmission output. The transmission was quite a deal. Since the whole transmission was to long I took it apart to see how I could shorten it. Turns out all the forward gears are in the front and only the reverser was in the back of the housing. I removed everything in the transmission accept 1st and 2nd gear. They shift in a push pull arrangment by that second rod you see out of the back of the transmission housing. I did some figuring and 2nd gear is about 1300 rpm when the motor turns 3000. That brings it to about the same output of the old hercules. I simply cut the output shaft off and welded the aluminium plate to the housing where I cut it off. I put seals around the shafts.

The distance between the shafts is 6 inches.I plan to use a double U-joint driveshaft to couple the output to the input shafts. The input to the cletrac is the same as the old Ford PTO shafts so I'll use an adaptor for that.

The front axle pivots on a 1 1/8 hitch pin and bushings with a grease fitting. The axle is made of 4x4 tubing. I had the bushings that weld to the undercarrage machined at a local shop. They are 2 inch OD and 7/8 ID. you can see a piece of one in the picture. The axle attaches via a ball joint thats made to be welded onto a tractor 3 point lift. Thats where the flex comes from. I lifted one side of the machine so you can see the deflection

This shows the track in full deflection. It's about 8 inches off the ground.

I hope this helps. I also hope I get back to this project in the near future.

kpfarmer · April 09, 2009, 01:34:35 PM

Here's a smaller view of the last post.

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440roadrunner · April 09, 2009, 05:21:02 PM

Very interested in progress on this, kp. I'm having a bit of a problem getting my head around the frame modifications. I see what was done on the front suspension--after a fashion, but I can't see what's going on with the doglegs right forward of the transmission.

kapou · April 10, 2009, 03:06:34 AM

KPfarmer
I don'tknow how to say it so here goes.. rethink your suspention! When you go over an obstical your gonna nose up three or more feet , and when you get past center you nose down hard. pivot won't work you need heavy springs your engine weight will be increased by three foot dead drop,,, SNAPP. I'll try to post a youtube tractor race in the 1920's . Sorry but I had to give you 2 cents

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6vbhvnIWVk

KAPOUl

kpfarmer · April 10, 2009, 03:19:54 AM

I assume you are referring to the front axle itself.

There are two things I tried to accomplish. I knew the replacement motor would be heavier that the original so I wanted the axle as far forward as possible. I didn't move it any farther because I didnt want a "torqueing" effect on the axle. (Is torqueing a word?

The second reason was to make room for the transmission to set lower in the frame so it would line up with the crawler transmission.

This worked well for me but if your motor and transmission fit you may not have to create the dogleg in the axle.

Looking further at your post I think you may mean the frame itself. I so I can explain that as well. I started by removing everything forward of the transmission. I needed a wider frame but the mounting bolts and holes are narrower for the original frame. At some point the frame had to get wider so I incorporated the footpegs in the design. So instead of building a frame then putting on foot pegs I made the foot pegs a part of the frame.

As you can see most of what I've done is a work in progress. I intend to add gussets and cap the ends of all the tubing. I invisioned that the "dashboard" if you will, will come up from the footpeg area. This area will be made of 2x4 tubing connected to the rest of the frame. I intend to use the entire frame as a hydraulic resevoir. I think I will be able to put the fuel tank in this area as well.

Hope this gives you some ideas!

kpfarmer · April 10, 2009, 03:29:48 AM

Just saw the video. Thanks for your thoughts. I gotta say I hope I don't get into a three foot drop on a maching with a five foot track length!

Any ideas for a machine that started with nothing left of the original front suspension?

Blake Malkamaki · April 10, 2009, 02:03:45 PM

Wow, that's in interesting video. Thanks for sharing!

I think those are mostly Cat 60s,, Cat 10s, and High Clearance Cat 10s.

I can honestly say that if there had been any Cletracs from the same era (1930s), they would have easily beat the Cats in that race. The Cletracs are so much more nimble they would have literally run circles around them.

Blake

kapou · April 10, 2009, 02:42:59 PM

Hello mr. blake..I was useing the video to show how the nose up and nose down needs some springie movement. My crawler is a 52 oc3 and these men have HG's. being basicaly the same.. It's amazing how you know the models and year of the crawlers. I was guessing the year.
seeya!

kapou

440roadrunner · April 10, 2009, 07:50:08 PM

I LOVE those old videos. Thanks for posting it.

Blake Malkamaki · April 11, 2009, 02:59:36 AM

As far as springy movement, that is not necessarily the case. On dozers and loaders, springs are not really desirable as they make it difficult to maintain a good grade, and they make the front end very bobby.

My OC-12 dozer has a walking beam instead of springs. It allows the tracks to articulate without any nose dive. The later loaders like the OC-126 and OC-96 had solid mounted track frames with no movement whatsoever. Cat 977s and such are also solid.

Blake

kapou · April 11, 2009, 05:10:59 PM

That is great to know. I have some solid advice.and I can rest easy. I will wait to see the outcome of 440 and kpfarmers projects.I wish them luck and thank you blake .

kapou

kpfarmer · May 02, 2009, 05:23:54 PM

It's raining here again so I've had some time to work on the Cletrac.
I have added the radiator from a Toyota truck (because it fits the new frame) I have also added the wiring harness and stripped it down to just the things I need. I mounted the dual coils and vacuum canister under the distributer.
I have also added the fuel tank from a boat as well as a battery and mount. The fuel pump mounts on the right side just behind the bell housing.
I have the local drive shaft shop working on the drive shaft joints and couplers.
I plan to use the hydraulic clutch from the truck. It all came out in good shape so it should work fine when installed.

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This shows the coils and vacuum canister. Sorry for the poor picture quality.

This is the fuel tank and battery mounts. I'm quickly running out of space!
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I wanted the fan to pull air out the front of the machine so I mounted an electric fan in front of the radiator. I finally found an american made fan. It cost more than the used radiator!

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Heres a look from the operators station. I say it that way because I don't have a seat.

I will have to create a whole new mount and would like to make it higher for better visibility. Anyone had any experience with this? Send some pics if you do.[/img]

kpfarmer · May 04, 2009, 12:48:13 PM

I had some more time so I added the hydraulic clutch. I used all the original components and all I have to do is modify the pedal itself and I'm in business.

Heres the clutch master cylinder and pedal setup. As you can see from the visegrips it's not quite done.

Heres the dampening valve and a view of the steel line going aroung the fuel pump that I also got mounted yesterday.
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