STARTING 1947 BD RESTO NEED HEAD GASKET AND UNSTICK CLUTCH

jonathanfleguel · October 03, 2010, 08:30:45 PM

well. I took the shifter out and put it back into neutral worked out pretty good. then i decided to pull the head because i had the afternoon holy 40 head bolts :lol: im starting to see maby a working dozer for spring time.

Bob · October 04, 2010, 02:05:55 AM

You can anneal it with a map gas torch, but after I talked with a friend and discussed it with him, think heating it in a fire, on a grate would be best. It would be more even of a heat. I'm thinking it needs to be heated to 900 degrees for a little bit, just so its heated thru. 160 lbs sounds right for the headbolts. I'll have to check the valve adjustment. It might not hurt to take the head to an engine shop and just have it checked for cracks. Probably if it were cracked it would be between the valves. You can wire brush it good and possibly see it. If it were ran with no water for long it might crack, It wasn't super common, but happened from time to time. The water in the valve cover could possibly have just been condensation. After you get it running again, use it for a week or two and retorque the head. Just tighten the rockers down until they are tight. Don't believe there is any specific torque for them.

Good luck
Bob

Blake Malkamaki · October 04, 2010, 04:33:04 AM

Quote from: "jonathanfleguel"can you anneal the gasket with a torch or find a machine shop with an oven to suit? im gonna anneal it and then put it back together and adjust the valves they were a ways out then im gonna set the timing on the injection pump then see where im at.

If you want to anneal a copper gasket, it's just the opposite of annealing steel. Steel you heat and let cool slowly. Copper you heat and cool it quickly to soften it.

Blake

jonathanfleguel · October 04, 2010, 11:44:15 AM

well i guess im gonna get an old grate and see if i can anneal that gasket. i think im gonna clean the haed off real good and have a look with a good light and see if i can find any cracks if not i think im gonna stick it back on with an annealed gasket and set my injection timing get her running and see if i still get the water in the oil, if its still dumping water in i might be down to see you bob a little sooner

jonathanfleguel · October 06, 2010, 12:27:28 AM

well i annealed that gasket tonight turns out my fire box is big enough so i got a grate and stuck it inthere for a while then quenched it. just got to get the flake from the fire off. then put the head back on. i took the side of the injection pump off and all the plungers moved freely. i took the seat off because im gonna rig up a seat that i can actually sit in till i get an original (thanks bob). when i had the seat off i took the inspection plates off the rear end to take a look at the rear end and i saw that the left brake is not riding on the drum center the drum is walked out or the brake is walked in. which makes sense because its a littler harder to convice it to turn left. any ideas. whats the best oil for the rear end im gonna drain it it looks a little murky. filling the rear end fills the finals and the tranny right there all the same to what level do i fill it. tomorrow i think its gonna rain so im gonna put the head on and set the timing and see if i got a new machine or what :?:

Bob · October 06, 2010, 04:02:44 AM

The last one I put together, I didn't use anything on. Maybe a little grease to keep it from sticking. Be sure to tighten the head from the inside out.

Could be a pin partially out of the brake band? Never ran into anything like that yet. 50 wt engine oil is the best for the rearend. Wolfshead, and Emblem make it, possibly others. Do not use regular hypoid gear oil. It will not steer right. There has been other discussions of this on here. Do a search and I'm sure you will find more info. There are about 4 drain plugs under the tractor. 1 for the tranny, 1 for the diff. and one for each final. Fill from the top, and let it run out of the holes on the back of the finals. It is then completely full. Thinking around 8 gallons. The rest can be used for trackwheel oil.

Hope all goes well

Bob

jonathanfleguel · October 08, 2010, 08:55:18 PM

well igot the head all back on took me a while to get it to go had to bleed each injector i also got a good battery and cables turns out the starter works good so i got it to go andwhen it was first started the throttle response was good and it sounded to be making good power couldent move it because of the clutch, usually i pull start it but i was by my self. it seemed to get really hot kinda quick but the rad was full and the in and out hoses felt equally hot so it is ciculating. any ideas? also once it warms up the throttle takes a long time to respond. could this be something tight in the bottom end. i hope not

Bob · October 09, 2010, 01:19:23 AM

The hoses shouldn't be equally hot...Bottom should be slightly cooler than top. If the water in the rad is low, just above the tubes, you should be able to see the water circulating good. If not there must be a blockage somewhere. Possibly a rad flush. As long as its not boiling it should be fine. My AD runs very warm after working, but not too hot.

I think its hard to believe, but still sounds like air, or the governor is messed up. We have an old dump truck with a cummins and it runs very weird if it gets air into the system. Throttle response very slow.

Bob