Gear Lube in Trans

[ozzy]

Hi,    Does any one know where the drain plug is on the trans. on the OC3. I was looking at mine and couldnt find it. Do you have to take the back cover off? I have a rack on the back of the frame for counter weights for the loader so its difficult to see under there. Also, do you use the same gear lube as in the final drives? I noticed when I had the finals apart that it looks like theres passages for the lube to run back and forth between the finals and trans. [ The passages Im talking about are up by the drive axles.    Thanks   OZZY

[Tom in NH]

Ozzy,
I am rebuilding my gearbox on the Oliver HG. This one is a Clark unit, I am sure yours is the same. There are two drain plugs underneath, one for the differential and the other one for the transmission. Take off your rack to access them. Drain both (they share the same outer housing) and refill through the top plug till it comes out of the plug that is located in the middle of the gearbox. Use the same gear lube as the final drive.
Tom

[John Schwiebert]

Tom: The transmission and differential should have 50 weight non-detergent oil, final drives 90 weight gear oil.
y dealer friend said this will help keep the bands from glazing.

[Tom in NH]

Thanks for the clarification, John
Tom

[ozzy]

Thanks guys,  found all the drains and filllerws.   OZZY

[mtncrawler]

I've been using regular 10W40 motor oil in the differential/transmission with good performance results. Since it's cheap and easy I change it alot. What about using light aircraft motor oil? Aeroshell 50wt would be non-detergent. Would this work better? Any ideas?

[Blake Malkamaki]

I used an SAE 50 detergent oil in my E, but I know it is not the right oil. Use a 50 weight non detergent gear oil.

Perhaps Ray will chime in here and give us his suggestion.

I know the wrong oil can glaze up the drums. And you don't want something so slippery that the brake bands won't grab.

[Dusty]

Occording to my OC-4 manel this is thier recomended lube schedule. (Transmission and Differential (includes slo-lo & travel reverser) change every 500 hoursAbove 32*F SAE 50
32*-0*F SAE 30
Below 0*F SAE 10W-30
Caution: extreme pressure, multi-purpose or detergent lubricants must not be used) Dusty

[mtncrawler]

Question about detergent oil. Anybody know what "detergent" means in reference to oil? And also, in a case like mine where i've been using 10w40 for awhile will switching to a non-detergent oil break any glazing that has occured? I think Blake is right about being so slippery that the machine doesn't turn as well as it should.

[Ray]

I know the book calls for 50wt, but the best luck we had was straight 90wt gear oil GL-1 grade, this is a non-detergent mineral gear oil. This works great with steering bands and like with the oc-4 steering clutches.<P>We do not get much colder then 20 degrees here, so this works for us. If you are using your dozer in sub zero weather you may want to use something lighter. These transmissions are not high performance trans or automatic, so use what works the beast in your climate and change at required hours. I agree with John, Blake, and Dusty it is best to use non-detergent.

[Dusty]

As far  as iI can recall, detergeant oil can be used from the beginning of a fresh engine, trans, etc...You can switch  from Detergeant to non-detergeant, (but then never switch back) And Y ou should not ever switch from non- detergeant to deatergeant oil. Of course this is all based on age  amount of use ,etc.... Dusty

[Blake Malkamaki]

I'm not sure what GL-1 90 weight oil is, but I would definately not use hypoid type oil made for a differential.

I know there is a difference between the viscosity of the same weight of gear oil vs. engine oil. I don't know why. Therefore, the 90 weight that Ray recommends may be similiar in viscosity to 50 weight engine oil, but I don't know. Personally I would not use 90 weight as the book calls for 50 weight and I was told by two long time Cletrac engineers not to use 90.

As far as switching from non detergent to detergent oils, that is usually true with engine oil, but I doubt it would matter with transmissions. I would however, not recomment using detergent oil in the Cletrac transmissions.

As far as switching from non detergent to detergent in an engine, the general rule is not to do it. However, I do it sometimes and think it is good to do sometimes, most especially in a diesel. It depends on how dirty the engine is. One could make the change slowly, so as not to loosen up too much crud in the engine.

[Ray]

Blake, now I'm curious what does this hypoid oil do that you were refering to and why wouldn't you use 90wt?

[Blake Malkamaki]

Ray, I don't know. That's just what I was told.

The 90 wt that I'm familiar with - made for car/truck differentials - is very very heavy. Until it's warmed up, I don't know if the Cletrac's pump would move it up to the top of the transmission.

It may be great for keeping oil in a leaking case.

[Ray]

I did some research, the hypoid oil is a GL-5 grade and extreme pressure oil, do not use this oil as it will eat the bronze bushings.<p> The 90wt GL-1 is a mineral oil and is a match in gear oil for the 50wt engine oil listed in your manuals.<p> The last printing of the OC-15 Instruction manual states that if a 50wt oil is not availible, use a 90wt gear oil non-detergent. The Case 310 manual (which uses the same transmission as the OC-3 and HG) Listed the 90wt mineral oil for lubrication in the transmission, differential, and final drives.