Transmission repair.

[Bill Seal]

There's a bearing going out in my OC3 transmission, probably the countershaft/layshaft whatever it's called.
What's the least hairpulling, wrenchthrowing, expletivedeleted, way of getting to it?
Thanks.

It's got the straddle mounted Anderson blade on it, which makes it almost impossible to even change the sparkplugs.
Did the people who designed these things look at a 9N and say to themselves "I think I can make repairs even more frustrating!"?

[hotratz]

The least frustrating way is to probably take a sedative first.  Someone posted on here sometime back a way to get to the side cover on the trans by taking a notch out of the frame and welding in a support to replace the notch that gave future access. I have reservations about notching the frame but the member who posted it didn't have any issues with it.

[kyle]

My OC3 has an Anderson blade and there is a notch in the frame. I am not sure if this is what you are refering to or not. If it is not has anyone seen this notch before? It also has a universal trencher auxiliary transmision.

[Robert Barbour]

Getting into the transmission requires Removing the transmission differential assembley from the tractor.  The top shaft comes out the front, but when it does the gears fall down into the case along with half of the rear tappered roller bearing.  You have to take the side shift housing off to get in there to get to the rear half of that bearing to replace it and to put the gears back in place when re-installing the shaft.  The bottom shaft goes out the back so diff has to come out first.  To get that shaft out, you first have to remove the front bearing and nut which you can't get to while it is in the tractor.  All and all it is a big job!

[Bill Seal]

OK. I've rounded up the floor jacks, jack stands, impact wrench, engine hoist, cutting torch, and there's a keg in the fridge.
What's the best way to get the track frames off in order to pull out the transaxle? (Some kind soul has already welded the nuts to those frame studs which need to be pulled.)

[Robert Barbour]

If your final drives are good and you have no work planned for them you can remove the track frame and tracks as a unit.  It helps alot if you have a nice level concrete floor to work on! Drive the tractor up on planks with rollers ( pipe etc ) under them such that they can be rolled to the side away from the tractor.  Block up the front of the tractor, block so it can not roll front or back.  Remove the nuts from the tie rod at the front mount and pull the tie rod.  Jack the front of the tractor up until the front mount is clear of the track frame.  Drain the oil from the transmission and diff.  Block rear of tractor.  Remove the six nuts holding the final housing to the diff.  Support the end of the final housing at the flange and roll the track frame away from the tractor.  Repeat for the other side.  Remove diff rear cover, the two diff bearing quills and roll diff out of the housing.  Remove the six studs that held the finals on from the diff case.  Remove the 4 front bolts from the front of transmission. pull cotter pin from drive shaft.  Remove a bolt from the top of the case install an eye bolt and support with a hoist.  Remove the bolts from the side of the case and remove transmission assembley.
Fix tranny and reinstall!!

[oliverchris]

Don't forget the keg in the fridge :cry: :oops: