Cletrac 20C w/ Hercules OOC Restoration Help/Questions....

biggurn · April 04, 2015, 04:08:24 AM

Thank you for your input. The cotter pins are per a manual from a JD diesel, they wedge against the rod keeping the wrist pin bolt tight (there are three sets of holes through the head so as to utilize the hole that will keep it tight), I've seen this in other old engines and tractors. It is also quite comon to use cotter pins through the castle nuts, they are a tight solid fit. While wire could be used, the cotter pins are much quicker. I've poured babbitt, but the rod needs to be machined so that it is perfectly square and I lack the jig to do, so we sent it out to a specialist on Wednesday. I talked with a shop about having the shaft hard chromed, but the cost was way expensive, it would be a send out with a 6-8 week turn around so we'll either spray weld or just machine a new piece. I just hope to get it into the tractor soon!

Bob · April 08, 2015, 12:45:37 AM

Check with Bill Kycia a couple posts down. Hes looking at parting out an E that would have a water pump like yours. If its in better condition. If you cant get him here, I can get him on the phone, or have my buddy knock on his door!

biggurn · April 08, 2015, 03:42:18 PM

Quote from: Bob on April 08, 2015, 12:45:37 AM
Check with Bill Kycia a couple posts down. Hes looking at parting out an E that would have a water pump like yours. If its in better condition. If you cant get him here, I can get him on the phone, or have my buddy knock on his door!

Thank you! I'll see if I can contact him through here, if not I'll let you know!

biggurn · June 11, 2015, 07:22:49 AM

This project has been on a standstill for a while now as I was stuck waiting for parts... they are here (for the most part)! Bill Kycia helped out in a big way with a complete governor and a magneto mount that will get this project going again! I have the rebabitted rod back and in the engine. I will get pictures posted as soon as I can get some more work done! I still need to make the new water pump shaft, but that can be done after everything else is back together. I hope to have the engine assembled after Coolsprings.

biggurn · September 11, 2015, 04:53:27 PM

We found time today to complete a little more work on the OOC... we started on the water pump impeller rod.

The initial plan called for drilling from the front side of the shaft clear through, this we found would be very difficult given that the retaining pin for the gear is hardened.

So we spun the shaft around, took some measurements and turned off the worn out impeller shaft.

biggurn · September 11, 2015, 04:55:55 PM

Then we drilled out the portion that we plan to reuse, we have decided to go press fit with the shaft and then pin it in place.
Centering:

Drilling

biggurn · September 11, 2015, 04:56:56 PM

Reaming

Test fit, with a little knurling to the shaft it should make a nice tight fit. We will also drill and pin the two parts together to make sure nothing slips or comes apart.

biggurn · September 11, 2015, 04:58:23 PM

And marking the new shaft for the impeller key way and the magneto drive key way:

One day closer! With luck we will get the shaft finished up and I can get the pump on the engine and wrap it up and prepare for installation!

Blake Malkamaki · September 12, 2015, 08:27:20 PM

Great job!

biggurn · September 23, 2015, 12:09:12 AM

Thank you!
Today we did a little more work... The impeller shaft is finished! Today we cut the key ways and fit the two halves together.
Cutting the first wooruff key slot

biggurn · September 23, 2015, 12:09:56 AM

With the key slots taken care of, we chucked the shaft back up in the lathe and knurled the end of it:

biggurn · September 23, 2015, 12:11:09 AM

The two halves pressed together:

While the fit was VERY tight, we still decided to drill and place a roll pin just to be sure nothing happens:

biggurn · September 23, 2015, 12:12:31 AM

Then, it was time to take the parts home and reassemble the pump and mount it back to the engine.

The impeller shaft installed in the carrier and impeller in place.

All together and back on the engine!

biggurn · September 23, 2015, 12:16:37 AM

This was as far as I made it today

I pulled the engine off the stand with plans to install the rear main seal and then install the back portion of the engine, the flywheel, and clutch... unfortunately the rear main seal that Olsson Gasket sent does not fit... they are as miffed as I am trying to figure it out, once that is resolved I'll be able to wrap that up and can place the engine in the tractor! I still need to make a few pieces and repair the radiator fan carrier, but those are minor things... I hope!

The engine is sitting on the shop floor now, patiently awaiting a rear main...

biggurn · September 23, 2015, 06:16:48 PM

After talking with Zimmerman's today, I discovered why the rear man supplied by Olsson's will not fit my OOC... this engine never had a rear main! Apparently on the early Hercules OOC engines used in the early Cletrac 20Cs (i.e. my first year production tractor) the engine did not have a rear main. Instead it had an oil slinger on the back of the crank to force oil back into the block.

Any oil that made it past the slinger would be caught in a oil scavenger groove machined in the rear cover designed to prevent loss of oil: