HG drive shaft

Started by pappyles, July 28, 2015, 01:10:00 AM

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pappyles

I'm replacing the drive shaft u-joints, I got new brgs from Zimmermans, very costly, $50.00 each, what is the best way, do you have to pull the engine?  Any help will be appreciated.

1956oc3

depends, which style of shaft do you have? pics will help
Scottie

pappyles

The shaft is like a short PTO shaft, made by the Blood Bros . 7/8"x 2 1/2 cross with snap rings on the outside.  Zimmerson sells a new shaft with newer style yokes for 275.00.  Thanks if this helps.

Jack in NB

No need to remove engine.

On mine, with all 4 set screws locking the yokes to the shafts loosened, the yokes slide onto the shafts, away from either the engine stub or the transmission stub, and the shaft can be removed.

There was a discussion a while back that the original u-joints were the same as Ford Model A parts. Dunno what current costs are.
1952 OC 3 6WH994

Blake Malkamaki

I would do some measuring before I paid $50 each for those joints. Model A parts should be very easy to find (if they are the same), and even getting a new propeller shaft made is not that hard. There are places like Point Spring and Driveshaft that do that work all the time. There are lots of mom and pop driveshaft shops around.

My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.


Lowspeedlife

That's a whole u joint/yoke assembly, the cross itself should be much cheaper.
Proud poppa of an OC3 !
1941 HG 42 all original
1949 HG 68

pappyles

The ujoint brgs from Zimmermans were Moog 870,  I asked the local autoparts store if he had a listing for these and he did but were none stock. they could probably get them by special order, there price was 37.50 each, still cheeper.  I guess I'll be pulling the engine.

Blake Malkamaki

Did you try sliding the shaft forward or back on the splines to see if the shaft will slip out?
My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.

pappyles

Well I guess nobody has ever replaced the drive shaft on a HG, a friend of mine suggested to loosen the 4 side frame bolts, the 4 nuts on the input side of transmission, and pry the rearend back enough to let the shaft slide on, It worked about an hour later we had it running.  Thanks.

mr.precision

Like Blake and Jack say - can you slide the shaft back and forth to remove easily? I just took mine out. Very simple. The shaft slides back in the yoke far enough to remove easy. I have a 1946 HG42.
1946 Cletrac HG 42
1950 JD Model B
1951 Farmall Super C
1945 Oliver 70 Syandard
1941 Oliver 60 RC
1955 Oliver Super 55
1947 Oliver OC3

eliwhitney907

is the cross part of your U-joint a ring shape or doughnut?  mine was on my oliver.  like blake and others say with that style you can collapse the driveline until the doughnut shaped cross part of the joint slips over the driveline on either side without removing the engine. however if some more modern u-joints were at sometime pressed in that were standard cross part you would not be able to collapse it enough to remove the driveline.  the driveline that Zimmerman sells complete has u-bolts that hold the joints to 1 side of the yolks so it can be disassembled and installed without removing the engine.
907akoliverowner

Lowspeedlife

Sorry we were not able to help you with your request Pappyles, there were several different styles of driveshaft used thru out the years on the HG/OC3. One of mine has the style Blake & Eli were referring to where the u-joint assemblies are set screwed to a splined shaft, that one allows the joints to be pushed together on the shaft & lifted out. Another has no splined shaft but a Tube welded between the two joints, with this style you must move the engine forward or the gear case backward. Interestingly the manual I have describes exactly what you did to remove this type of shaft. Some even have a modern style drive shaft with a sliding yoke assembly just like a modern automobile. It appears everyone was trying to gleen a little more info from you to give you the correct procedure.

Scott R.
Proud poppa of an OC3 !
1941 HG 42 all original
1949 HG 68

pappyles

Thanks to all for info on replacing u-joints on my HG.  Thanks Lowspeedlife, your info was helpful.  I guess a pic would have been helpful.   Yes mine has those yokes welded on a short shaft, about 3 inchs long.  there is now way it can be put back in without either taking the engine forward or letting the rearend back an inch or two.  The rearend was much simpler. 

oliverchris

Specialising in Oliver & Cletrac Crawlers & Parts for HG's, OC-3's & OC-4's from the 30's to the 60's. OC-6 and others from time
1945 Cletrac HG42 + electric snowblade
1952 OC-3-31 sidewalk plow, OC-3-42 + Ware 3-WI (several)
OC-3-42 Heller Universal Trencher
1957 Oliver Super 55, 1958 Oliver 550's Gas/Diesel, 1970's Oliver 1255 FWA
1969 White 2-44 13LL (loader/backhoe)
OC-4 4 cyl. Anderson Dozer, OC-4 Series B 6-way Dozer, OC-46 Series B Loaders
OC-46-A Experimental Crawler Loader