OC-4 will only run on wrong firing order?

Started by Grant Richie, May 29, 2013, 05:29:53 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Doug424

I have found a lot of good used model A u-joints at flea markets and on ebay. A source for new ones that some people use is: http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/1620  that's the kit for $43,, they sell the whole joint for $95 So, what you found sounds about right.
HG's (several) OC-3's, (many), OC-4, OC-46,
OC-96, OC-12, OC-126, Cletrac AD2
Cletrac DD, Cletrag AG-6
Many other Crawlers, Tons of junk

oliverchris

I have had similar experiences with NAPA, although other's have great experiences to report. Depends where you are, I guess.

Thank you for the U-joint information. I haven't found them any cheaper, myself.

On the rubber boot, I sell them for $10 plus probably about $3 shipping ? certainly no more than $15 inc. shipping, wherever you are in the US.
www.facebook.com/OliverCrawlers

or
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=141047136067805&set=a.141045429401309.1073741837.115094158663103&type=3&theater
Specialising in Oliver & Cletrac Crawlers & Parts for HG's, OC-3's & OC-4's from the 30's to the 60's. OC-6 and others from time
1945 Cletrac HG42 + electric snowblade
1952 OC-3-31 sidewalk plow, OC-3-42 + Ware 3-WI (several)
OC-3-42 Heller Universal Trencher
1957 Oliver Super 55, 1958 Oliver 550's Gas/Diesel, 1970's Oliver 1255 FWA
1969 White 2-44 13LL (loader/backhoe)
OC-4 4 cyl. Anderson Dozer, OC-4 Series B 6-way Dozer, OC-46 Series B Loaders
OC-46-A Experimental Crawler Loader

Blake Malkamaki

If you have a dedicated drive shaft shop in your area, they'll probably know more than an auto parts store. Especially for old or unusual applications. Around here we have a place called Point Spring and Driveshaft. I've had them rebuild several driveshafts for me. It sounds like you found a good price on the Model A u-joints, but you might want to check with a local shop if you have one.
My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.

Subgates

So there I was.... trying to get my "Chocked full o nuts" OC3 running and the wife starts reading me this post, In two wire swaps it was running!  After 3 days of trying to make sure my OC3 was set up like the book. Now it just purrs..... Thanks everyone.
OC3 "Chocked Full of Nuts"
Ford 8N (all done)
My Dad's 1942 John Deere LA
John Deere 310B

Blake Malkamaki

My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.

Subgates

I knew my IXB 3 had come from another device since there's no Oliver bell housing badge like plate with the OC3 serial on it. The engine crankshaft has the extension to run my hydraulic pump. But does anyone know why Grants and my IXB3's use the other (wrong) firing order?
OC3 "Chocked Full of Nuts"
Ford 8N (all done)
My Dad's 1942 John Deere LA
John Deere 310B

oliverchris

I assume because you did not set up #1 on the magneto rotor with the upstroke of the #1 piston.
Specialising in Oliver & Cletrac Crawlers & Parts for HG's, OC-3's & OC-4's from the 30's to the 60's. OC-6 and others from time
1945 Cletrac HG42 + electric snowblade
1952 OC-3-31 sidewalk plow, OC-3-42 + Ware 3-WI (several)
OC-3-42 Heller Universal Trencher
1957 Oliver Super 55, 1958 Oliver 550's Gas/Diesel, 1970's Oliver 1255 FWA
1969 White 2-44 13LL (loader/backhoe)
OC-4 4 cyl. Anderson Dozer, OC-4 Series B 6-way Dozer, OC-46 Series B Loaders
OC-46-A Experimental Crawler Loader

Subgates

#22
Chris

I put a spark plug in-line neon light on the front (number one) spark plug/cylinder. I rolled the engine by hand until that (front #1) plug wire flashed with light, it's fed by the wire off of the top R hand wire from the magnetos cap (distributor). The SPRK mark is in the flywheel timing hole, and that all coinsides with the white bar in the he magnetos timing window. So could I still have the engine mechanically 180 out? Or is it 90 degrees? I timed the engine with a timing light, on the SPRK mark in the window, on the cylinder one plug wire. It idled ok, but It ran like crap loaded, but it ran, it didn't like to run loaded in gear or moving the blade up and down timed that way. Later I timed it closer to TDC and it purrs. All with an incorrect firing order?

I'll play with it more after my compression tester comes in.

Subgates
OC3 "Chocked Full of Nuts"
Ford 8N (all done)
My Dad's 1942 John Deere LA
John Deere 310B