OC4 Clutch Replacement. Stuck Yoke.

[Jim N]

I am trying to replace the clutch in my early series OC4 and have a question.
Can the yoke stay on the output shaft, from the engine,  when I slide it out of the bell housing??  Is there enough room at the back ,near the transmissiom to let it be completely removed?
The book says to take out the prop. shaft, remove the bearing retainer and put a 1" washer on the output shaft and pry out the bearing and shaft together before removing the bellhousing.
The yoke is stuck on the shaft pretty good and there isn't much room for a puller while it's in the crawler.    

Any suggestions from anybody who has run into the same trouble would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[walter hudson]

you will need to get the yoke free on the spline and remove the shaft,  their are two types of prop shafts one uses a joint like the model a ford ,and the other uses a normal spicer joint , with the older style prop  the yokes must slide inward on the shaft connecting them . the other slides on the clutch and trans. shaft .in either case they must be freed up to remove the prop shaft , i have had trouble before and had to heat the yokes with a torch to free them up ,also the yokes should have  set screws that held them in place before rust took over . once the prop is out, the clutch shaft can usually be pulled out by hand after removing the three bolts . incase you have never done this before ,after removing the bell housing bolts turn it until the two notches in the bellhousing line up with the frame rails and then pull the bellhousing out .
                                                       good luck , walter

[Jim N]

Thanks for the response.
The shaft is out along with the yoke at the rear. The yoke at the front remains.  
 It took a week of spraying it with blaster and tapping with a ball peen hammer to get that far.  I was reluctant to use fire in this area because of the proximity to the gas tank.
I will probably do more tapping and spraying.   Best not be in too much of  a hurry when working on 50 year old steel.

[andy b.]

are you guys saying that the drive shaft in the bell housing that connects the clutch to the stub axle (and passing through the bell housing) needs to be removed prior to removing the bell housing (clutch cover i think is what the manual calls it).  i think all i did with mine (a 1957 OC-46) was remove that stub axle (the one between the bell housing and tranny), and then unbolt the bell housing and remove everything attached to the bell housing as a complete unit.

i don't think having that universal joint yoke left on the back of the bell housing would've made much difference in what i did.

andy b.

[Jim N]

Yes Andy, That's exactly what I  am  talking about.
It will save a lot of grey hair if I can remove the bell housing and shaft together  without having to take the yoke off the shaft,  while in the crawler.
Once it's out,  I can put a puller on it and put all kinds of fire on the yoke to get 'er loose.
The yoke seems to add a couple of inches to the total length that might interfere with removing the assembly. My steering levers are still installed.
I will try to do it this weekend.

[andy b.]

Jim,

i didn't remove my brake levers when i pulled my bellhousing off.  and now that i think of it, i am positive i pulled the entire assembly out without pulling the shaft out of the bellhousing.  all i did was remove the small driveshaft with the two universals (the one that connects the bellhousing to the tranny).  i did have to wiggle the bellhousing around to remove it from the crawler, but it wasn't too bad.

andy b.

[Jim N]

:wink:

[andy b.]

yeah, that sounds about right.
 

putting it back in like that is just and much fun, if you like those kinds of puzzles.

andy b.