Question on IXK-3 Rebuild in Washington State?

wesocec · May 04, 2009, 06:23:22 AM

It appears I may be looking at a rebuild on my IXK-3 motor. Zimmermans says I have babbetted bearings with my serial number block. Question one: Is it worth rebuilding a babbetted bearing motor or buying a IXK-3 somewhere and rebuilding it if necessary? 2: Does anyone know of a place out west here where they will do the work as far as bearing rebabbetting or maybe the complete rebuild?

Robert Barbour · May 04, 2009, 06:41:09 PM

You could contact Vintage Engine Machine Works,North 604 Freya Street Spokane at 800 233 6934. Have a look at the web site at ramengine.com

wesocec · May 04, 2009, 08:13:33 PM

Thanks for the info. I will give them a call tomorrow.

wesocec · May 06, 2009, 06:05:36 AM

They want about $3200 somalians for a complete rebuild over there. $75 bucks or so shipping each way. Probably a little more than I am willing to put into the motor. Looks like I will be doing some engine work myself.

hotratz · May 06, 2009, 01:06:26 PM

Were are you at in Wash.? The IXB-3 in my OC-4 was done by a shop in Renton a few years ago for about 1800.00. That included clutch and pressure plate.

I believe this is them:

Pacific Auto Machine
333 Sunset Blvd N
Renton, WA 98057

(425) 226-0930

wesocec · May 07, 2009, 02:12:31 AM

I am out by Roy down South from you. I would have no problem bringing the motor down there to get the rebuild. How did their work turn out? I have the IXK-3 motor and may have babbetted bearings in it but am not sure until I pull the pan. I will give them a call and get a price on each. Do you know anyone selling an ixb-3 that is rebuildable?

hotratz · May 07, 2009, 06:19:23 PM

The engine was rebuilt before I purchased the crawler but not yet installed so I didn't get to examine anything before it went together. The previous owner has had that shop do a few of his tractor engines and was always happy with them. He lives in Cle Elum so he had to go quite distance to have the work done. The engine runs real sweet but I haven't moved the crawler yet.

You might want to call this guy
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/grd/1151688203.html and see if he can tell you which engine this is.

wesocec · May 07, 2009, 07:12:16 PM

I sent him a message. We'll see what happens. Craigslist is a good idea, never thought about that. Thank you!!!

John Schwiebert · May 07, 2009, 08:27:31 PM

I was sure I put a reply in. Now I need to look for it. Do you have both an IXK and an IXB engine now? Send me a PM if you want to. I have some suggestions.

hotratz · May 07, 2009, 09:20:12 PM

You did John! It's HERE

Blake Malkamaki · May 07, 2009, 09:46:21 PM

Quote from: "wesocec"It appears I may be looking at a rebuild on my IXK-3 motor. Zimmermans says I have babbetted bearings with my serial number block. Question one: Is it worth rebuilding a babbetted bearing motor or buying a IXK-3 somewhere and rebuilding it if necessary? 2: Does anyone know of a place out west here where they will do the work as far as bearing rebabbetting or maybe the complete rebuild?

Are your bearings shot? Maybe you can just take shims out as necessary?

Blake

wesocec · May 07, 2009, 11:12:39 PM

John, I only have the IXK now but am thinking it might be more cost effective to get and rebuild a IXB. I PM'd you. Not really sure how that works but it seemed straight forward.

Blake, I am not versed in these babbett bearings well enough to know what shims you are refering to. This is by far the oldest motor I have worked on or researched. Right now it only sounds like one rod knocking, but the nock is enough that it is disconcerting to me.

When the motor first starts, there doesn't really seem to be a knock but as it warms up the knock getts pretty noticable at a low idle. As I rev the motor up with the throttle lever the knock gets louder through the middle RPMs then seems to settle down more towards the top RPMs.

I doesn't sound like any piston slap I have ever heard. But I am completely unfamiliar with flat head motors. The motor has the Wico xh1113. The reciepts for replacement of rotor, wires, points, etc... were from 2002.

Any diagnosis info would be much appreciated like the replies I have already gotten. I am really happy there is a site out here with so many people willing to share thier knowledge. Thank you in advance!

Blake Malkamaki · May 08, 2009, 12:51:52 AM

Quote from: "wesocec"Blake, I am not versed in these babbett bearings well enough to know what shims you are refering to. This is by far the oldest motor I have worked on or researched. Right now it only sounds like one rod knocking, but the nock is enough that it is disconcerting to me. .....But I am completely unfamiliar with flat head motors.

I would suggest that before you go spending any big bucks, or even contemplating spending big bucks on an engine or a rebuild, that you tear this one apart and see what you have. You say you are not familiar with babbit bearings, so I would say "get familiar with them." They are simple and easy to adjust. Even if you have one bad rod bearing, just find someone to pour you a new one - or read up on it and do it yourself.

Maybe all you need is a set of rings and some bearings adjusted and you'll be all set.

Don't think of the worse until you find out what it's like inside!

Blake

wesocec · May 08, 2009, 03:31:28 AM

That sounds like some solid advice Blake! So there is some type of adjustment that can be made to the bearing itself other than just replacing it? Do you know of any good books or reading material about babbitt bearings and how to work with them?

hotratz · May 08, 2009, 01:26:05 PM

Blakes probably more familiar with these bearings than I am. I've only done it once with an old Chevy engine but basically the way the clearances are set up between the babbitt and the crank journal is with small shims on the cap bolts between the block and the bottom of the cap. Initially some number of set-up shims are placed on the bolts and a piece of plasti-guage is sandwiched between the journal and bearing then torqued. This squeezes the plasti-gauge to the thickness of the clearance. The plasti gauge is removed and measure to see what kind of clearance the shim stack produced. A simple comparison chart comes with the plasti-gauge to convert it's compression width to a thickness. (bearing clearance) Adjusting the shim stack changes the clearance. It's a trial and error process.

If you have too much clearance (knock) you simply remove shims while re-gauging until it's with-in spec.