cletrac "AD" need advice

Started by Scott Vassar, May 19, 2008, 02:10:21 AM

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Scott Vassar

I'm new to cletrac crawlers.I just picked up a model ad with a hercules dooc engine.serial number3z764.I think it was built in 1947-48. It has a heil road machinery blade system.its sat for years,I dont know if the engine or the trans is locked up.I pulled the final dive plate under the seat.the trans looks good but the shifter rails wont move in either direction.also I removed the starter to see if I could get a bar on the ring gear to see if I could get it to move. any advice????thanks in advance, scott
cletrac "AD" , & 15

walter hudson

AD
#1
The shifter rails have springs with detent balls .They are removed from the front of the trans case . If the engine is stuck take time and work it loose .If you can not get any movement with the ring gear ,remove the fuel tank and clutch cover to get a better place to work with.

Scott Vassar

#2
the shifter rails are still in the trans case.I looked inside to see if possibly they were meshed in 2 gears, but they dont seem to be.as far as the engine, I will try the ring gear if I can get in there,not much room with the blade mechinism on .I do like the idea of pulling the tank though. thanks,scott
cletrac "AD" , & 15

Bob

#3
I have a BG that the shifter was stuck on and I ended up working tranny oil into it as I drove it back and forth with a hammer. as long as the gears mesh close to wiggle together it will be ok.

If you think the transmission is stuck put a block on the clutch and the try to turn the engine over. If the engine doesn't turn remove the injectors and squirt oil in the cylinders. You will need a long spout on the oil can to get into the cylinders. I prefer to use tranny oil and diesel a 50-50 mix.

Bob
Certified Cletrac-tard

VaMike

#4
I had an ADH, be careful on the engine. Parts are scarce and high priced.
Best,
Mike

Scott Vassar

#5
I am going to try both of these things. thanks.could any one tell me what grade oil goes in the govner? also on the head between the head bolts are what look like packing glands with what apear to be brass sherader valve caps.what makes me wonder is that they are vertically in line with the injectors???? anyone have any idea what they are & what the do??? thanks, scott
cletrac "AD" , & 15

Bob

#6
I am not sure about the caps and packing glands are for. I don't remember anything in my book about it but will look in my older book. I Have 3 ADs one has what you are talking about and one doesn't, the third I don't remember. I have had the head off both and didn't see anything different but I didn't look real close. I'll look into it. I'll check into the govoner oil too.

Bob
Certified Cletrac-tard

Scott Vassar

#7
I pulled the injectors to put oil/fuel in the cylinders, what I found was that 3 of 4 cylinders were full of fuel.the guy I got the machine from said that 20-30 years ago they tried to start it but it would not go.its still locked up.should I bite the bullet & pull the head??? any one have any Ideas?thanks, scott
cletrac "AD" , & 15

John D

#8
Quote from: "scott vassar"I pulled the injectors to put oil/fuel in the cylinders, what I found was that 3 of 4 cylinders were full of fuel.the guy I got the machine from said that 20-30 years ago they tried to start it but it would not go.its still locked up.should I bite the bullet & pull the head??? any one have any Ideas?thanks, scott

If any of the cylinders that are full of fuel are on the compression cycle, that would make it near impossible to turn over (can't compress liquid).  Evacuate the cylinders and see if it will turn over before pulling the head.
John D
If you want to do what you want to do, you have to do what you have to do.

Bob

#9
I checked in my hercules book and the nut and plug things are there just to plug the holes for the glow plugs. I would give it a week or two before you tear it apart. Pull it apart then after the oil has a chance to work into the rings. Just remember when you do tear it apart to take your time and be somewhat gentle. It took a long time to get set up and its not going to just free up overnight.

Bob
Certified Cletrac-tard

Scott Vassar

#10
well I tried all the things people posted in return . here is what I found out.I ended up pulling the exhaust manifold off first.it was full of rusty goo.that made me decide to pull the head.after cleaning out fuel,water,& crud.I found one of the cylinder sleeves had a hole the size of a quarter & the chunck inside the cylinder. the others look to be in good shape.no rust or pits.I got the shifter rails freed up, & tranny loose.now it looks like I will have to pull the engine.I called zimmermans they told me sleeves are $160.00 ea.I think I may go that route.they also told me I could change one & not have to do all four. what do you guys think? any one have any ideas? thanks in advance.
cletrac "AD" , & 15

Blake Malkamaki

#11
Do the "good" cylinders have any ridge on the top? Do you have a set of inside mics that you can use to measure the cylinders for size and trueness?

Blake
My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.

Scott Vassar

#12
the cylinders dont seem to have any ridge on them.I do have a set of machinist "snap gadges" . the problem I still face is one or more of the cylinders are stuck. I still have to take it farther apart to free them up. my thought was to take loose the rods from the crank & tap out the pistons with a hard wood block .
cletrac "AD" , & 15

John Schwiebert

AD
#13
At this stage of the game I would take the engine out of the frame. You have the broken sleeve. Those are dry sleeves and fit real tight. On the broken sleeve, is the block broke behind it? You may be better off and it may be cheaper to remove the broken sleeve and having a machine shop fir you a repair sleeve. Then also take the piston that is worn the most and have that sleeve fir for that piston. Send me an e-mail with a phone number. We can discuss it over the weekend or next week. I am gone the rest of the week. Your governor takes engine oil. The bottom of your pump also takes engine oil. This was before the days when pumps were pressure lubed like in the last 40 years. More questions?
John Schwiebert

Scott Vassar

#14
the block is fine.the sleeve it self had a chunck poped out from the coolant sideit was lying on the top of the piston when i took the head off.thanks for the other information, i was wondering about the pump oil.
cletrac "AD" , & 15