STARTING 1947 BD RESTO NEED HEAD GASKET AND UNSTICK CLUTCH

Bob · September 07, 2010, 09:21:49 PM

The secondary filter is avalible from NAPA or Wix, Don't know the number off hand. The One on the fire wall is a cloth supposed to be rinsed one, but most are so deteriated they just fall apart, if they haven't already. I converted mine to a modern style spin on, holder and filter. Another one I made an adapter for the inside and found a modern paper cartridge that worked good.

jonathanfleguel · September 07, 2010, 10:33:45 PM

well since i was running clean fuel out of a jerry can i bypassed all filters and went straight from the can to the primer to the pump. i got her going and starteed cracking injecters again and this time got 4 out of 6 going and it sounded pretty good. this time it ran for maybe 10 min full throttle while i was checking things over and it seems to very slowly and gradually comes under load uintil it finally dies. would sucking air through the primer do this because it works but gets diesel everywhere. is this problem air in fuel or could it be a weak injection pump or something else major. i cleaned the oil filters before i started it and thay havent been changes since the build date or so it seemed they were so full of sludge it was crazy nothing a parts washer cant handle though. if i were to pass the project onto more capable/restoring hands would there be some interest just putting it out there thanks again great site.

Bob · September 09, 2010, 02:26:07 AM

It sounds like a fuel problem to me. The primary pump could be not delivering the fuel like its supposed to, or letting air get into the system.

It is getting oil circulation isn't it? I would think it woulda tossed a rod by now but could it be a main? Doubtful, but...

jonathanfleguel · September 09, 2010, 11:28:32 AM

im thinkin fuel because a sniff of either will keep it runnin i have to properly seal the primer because it problably sucking air through. i cleaned the oil filter and using the bleed screw filled the filter till it squirted out so the pumps working. just a curious question but how do you know if the govener is working. also one of the injecters gets fuel but it flows when cracked not spray. is that a fixable thing delivery valve? plugged line? when these motors do run right can they actually push dirt or do you have to be kinda ginger with them.

jonathanfleguel · September 09, 2010, 11:44:08 AM

how do i check timing. i have changed the timing but that was on my cummins and i bumped from a known factory setting. how do i find the right spot or is it just trial and error also how do i do it on my truck the pump was turned?

Bob · September 10, 2010, 02:44:37 AM

Its a little difficult to explain, but here it goes: This is for the inline pump. Will be a slip coupling.

Roll up on #1 (front cylinder toward rad.)
Roll backwards to the degree mark on flywheel, Probably 25 ish BTDC I'm guessing
Take #1 injection line off, and take the plunger out. Will come out top, be careful to have everything clean and don't loose spring.
Put top on plunger, leaving insides removed.
Have pump coupling loosened so you can turn by hand.
Supply fuel to pump and keep it flowing, by hand pump or gravity.
Bring pump to where you know its BTDC, fuel should be flowing freely.
Turn until fuel just stops, try it a couple times until its perfect.
Tighten, and put it all back together.
If done properly will be timed perfectly.

I've never timed a rotary, can't help you there.

It sounds more difficult than it actually is. I tuned my AD with the DOOC by ear, before I knew to do it this way.

I've never ran a BD bulldozing much, but what little I've done they seem to do decent. If they are anything like my AD power for size, its very impressive really.

As for the governor, I'd thing if you had the linkage unhooked it would want to pull out of your hand when it came into a load, I'm pretty sure of this on a gasser, but not familiar with the diesels. All mine just work.

Thi injection line just leaking might indicate a stuck, or sticky plunger. Take the cover off the side of the pump and you can see if there are any sticking, or stuck. If they are very gently pry them down, and just be sure everything is very clean. A little diesel conditioner wouldn't hurt it. Even lace it real hard for a while, won't hurt it.

John Schwiebert · September 10, 2010, 12:10:17 PM

Bob and everyone else. Some BD crawlers were timed to #6 cylinder instead of number one. We had one customer that had a BD that was timed that way. If it rains this weekend I will look. Sitting on the seat is your injection pump on the right side or the left side of the engine.

jonathanfleguel · September 10, 2010, 01:22:05 PM

sitting on the machine its on your left. thanks bob for the "how to" i will do that next time i get an afternoon to tinker.

Bob · September 13, 2010, 02:33:05 AM

Thats news to me. From my understanding all Hercs were from the radiator... I've got a couple DJX books will investigate also.

Bob · September 18, 2010, 01:26:04 AM

Alright, according to my book John is right. It is still numbered with #1 as the front toward radiator. The Bosch pump is timed to number 6 cylinder. The Roosa Master pump is timed from number one. Timing is 24 degrees BTDC industrial and 26 degrees BTDC automotive. The Roosa Master pump is 18 degrees BTDC.

So I was dang close with my timing guess!

jonathanfleguel · September 29, 2010, 01:21:06 AM

well i havent been able to tinker on the old girl in a while. but i was thinking and if the clutch is pooched where can i get another one. also how is the timing physically set on these motors do i disconnect the coupling then turn the injection pump any help would be greatly appreciated. i got it running a while back with no hood on it and the rad tilted back and the fan took a swipe at it i might be ablr to gob it up but is there anybody who has one pensylvania way my dad is headen that way soon. thanks also can i take the inspection plate off the side of the inj. pump with it running to see if a plunger is stuck. im sure i have more questions but thats all for now.

Bob · September 30, 2010, 02:10:28 AM

Good to hear from you again John!

There is a really good chance I've got all the parts you need to fix that thing up. I've got a good (I think will test) radiator, clutch, and more than likely anything else you may need. I'm in NW Pa area code 16701, prices very reasonable too. Alot of the parts are already pulled. PM me for contact info

You could probaly rock the engine with a bar or wrench of sort, with the plunger out, and by the timing marks to see it you were even in the ball park. Then disconnect the pump to adjust. I hope I answered your question, if not feel free to ask and I'll see what we can do.

Bob

Bob · September 30, 2010, 02:13:52 AM

Oh and I can't think of any reason that you couldn't check for stuck plungers while the engine is running, just be very very careful not to get any dirt inside. It should be "surgically" clean.

If you want an instruction, repair manual for it, I've got an extra.

Bob

jonathanfleguel · September 30, 2010, 11:17:15 AM

where are the timing marks. i gotthe tranny stuck while trying to pull it yesterday i was pulling it in 3rd and when it fired i bumped it out of third but it dident come out of thirdf but the shifter felt out of third. now all i have is third and then one other position that just locks up the tracks. i am on the verge of selling it to my neighber to display in front of his shop but i kinda like the old girl i would like it alotm more if it would play ball but persistance is key. i am interested in the rad and clutch bob ill pm ya. thanks guys it would have been parked a while ago if not for your tech support.

Bob · October 01, 2010, 03:22:37 AM

Forgot to mention in the PM. The shifter is probably worn. I've got an extra you can have with the other parts.

Timing marks are on the flywheel, probably injection pump side, under a pipe plug in the engine/bellhousing adapter.

I feel your pain, as we all do I'm sure. Don't give up!